Open in West Islip: Atlantis Diner

Remember the old Delphi Diner in West Islip? It's now history, replaced by the sleek, new, beachy-looking Atlantis Diner. A few weeks before opening, one of the owners described it in a phone conversation as 'trendy."

I'd agree, at least in terms of decor (love the cool oceanic murals). But in most other ways, it seems a  Long Island diner in the traditional sense.

At a recent breakfast, I ordered pancakes; they were good and pretty light, but served with little plastic cups of Smucker's "breakfast" syrup. The real stuff from maple trees was not to be had, even for an up-charge. An egg white cheese omelet was delicate and runny, served with creditable home fries.

Somewhat disconcerting: the extensive menu (wraps, sandwiches, salad, Greek and Italian specialties, broiled entrees and "seafood treasures") is peppered with ads. Do you really want to read about auto collision repair or oral surgery while figuring out whether to order roast turkey or Roumanian steak?

The Atlantis Diner is at 350 Montauk Hwy., West Islip, 631-587-2003.