Dining at Friendly's: Does the nostalgic chain still hold up?

Fribbles and Jim Dandies. Reese’s Pieces sundaes and banana splits. Cotton candy ice cream-filled and whipped cream-topped Happy Ending sundaes after killer chicken fingers and fries. This is how I remember trips to Friendly’s after elementary school chorus concerts in the '80s.

Since my daughter was born, I’ve dreamed of taking her to make the same core, sugar-soaked, Long Island memories. But I couldn’t escape the central question: Would Friendly’s hold up?

Founded in 1935 by the Blake Brothers in Springfield, Massachusetts, Friendly's started as a stand-alone ice cream shop with double-dipped cones costing a mere 5 cents. Its bright red "A friendly place for families" signs became a childhood (and parental) oasis for classic sundaes and signature milkshakes. A menu of burgers and comfort food was added as the company grew. But in the past five years, at least half a dozen Friendly's locations have closed on Long Island.

GOING BACK TO FRIENDLY'S

On a recent rainy Sunday, my dad and I, his girlfriend, and my 6- year-old daughter, Grace, pulled up to Friendly’s in Commack. "Save Room for Ice Cream," the sign over the door screamed. Man, did I have room — over 35 years of room — for ice cream. 

As I remembered, the interior was expansive and bright, accented with cherry-red leather booths and tabletops, and a thick, high-traffic carpet. Warm overhead table lamps had been replaced by harsher, fluorescent ceiling lights, and black-and-white murals featuring the iconic Fribble milkshake gave the space a modern diner-type feel. About half the tables were full, a mix of older couples, young families and groups of teenagers. Unsurprisingly, there was ice cream on every table.

Our server walked us to a booth, placing atop a library stack of menus — food, Kids’ Zone, dessert, seasonal specials, lunch combos. So much selection, I was overwhelmed. No wonder the friendly (ahem) server was patiently waiting as diners of all ages perused the offerings with big eyes and bellies, hemming and hawing over the most important decision of their day. My father and his girlfriend chose BLTs ($11.99) — from the Seniors’ menu, a value offering that, like the kid’s menu, also came with Happy Ending sundaes ($4.99 value). Grace chose a kid’s grilled cheese ($7.99), and I went with the Honey BBQ Chicken Super Melt ($13.99). All of our meals came with fries.

MEMORIES FROM FRIENDLY'S

For me, Friendly’s had never been a place for a meal; it was a dessert spot where your meal was a merely a means to an end. But I was pleasantly surprised by the food. No complaints on the BLTs from the peanut gallery: "plenty of bacon, fresh, ripe tomatoes, crisp not soggy lettuce," my father said. "Good coleslaw," his girlfriend added. The grilled cheese won high marks from my mini, who has become quite the budding food critic over the last couple of years. Even my melt, loaded with frozen (but good) chicken fingers and doused in tangy barbecue sauce, hit the spot. But I only ate a few bites, because — say it with me now — I was saving room for ice cream.

"A Reese’s Pieces sundae ($8.49), please, with butter crunch ice cream, for all five scoops," I giddily requested, feeling 13 years old again. I literally couldn’t wait for the fishbowl of peanut butter and hot fudge drizzled over the silky cream flecked with maple toffee pieces of my youth to land. As a cherry on top (no pun), I threw in a Fribble ($7.29), the original viral milkshake, "for the table," nevermind that they were all getting Happy Endings — one scoop of your choice flavor, one topping, whipped cream and a cherry.

As we waited for our desserts, an elderly couple at a booth across the way motioned for their check, only to be informed by the server that it had been paid by the family at the table next to them. Visibly moved by the gesture, the gentleman wearing a Vietnam vet hat made his way out, passing table after table of diners who acknowledged his service. It felt good to be of one mind in that moment.

FRIENDLY'S ICE CREAM FINALE

Back to the task at hand: The sundae was exactly as I remembered. Slightly melted butter crunch ice cream — the ideal consistency — peanut butter and fudge swirled high, with more to scrape off the side of the glass for the perfect bite. Whipped cream, chocolate sprinkles, and the Reese’s Pieces layered as texture. Sweet, salty perfection.

Sadly, the only letdown was the Fribble. It was watery, the punch of vanilla flavor drowned out by the ice, the thickness advertised lost in creation. Still — for $68, my family had full meals, drinks and desserts. Save room for ice cream, indeed.

There are 10 remaining Friendly’s across Nassau and Suffolk: in Massapequa Park, East Meadow, Coram, Commack, East Islip, Sayville, Shirley, Stony Brook, Medford and Riverhead. With enough notice, Grace and I may even meet you there.

By Marie Elena Martinez

marieelena.martinez@newsday.com@mariesworlds

A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.