Review: Ginza in Levittown
Live California Sea Urchin that is washed in salt water and dressed in sake then topped with shiso flowers, Ginza, Levittown. Credit: Stephanie Foley
For ambitious sushi bars today, it’s common to fly in seafood directly from Tokyo’s storied Tsukiji fish market, but when Ginza opened in Massapequa in 2012, it was the only place on Long Island to do so. The original restaurant in Massapequa closed in 2020 but was reborn in a side-street strip mall in Levittown with bleached wood, recessed lighting and neutral upholstery. Bottom line: Ginza continues to impress.
With a feel that’s more Manhattan than suburbia, this swanky spot hums to the din of happy diners of all walks — couples, groups, families, and singles. Sure, there are trendy appetizers like rock shrimp tempura; spicy tuna over crispy rice, and yellowtail and jalapeño with yuzu soy sauce, but the focal point is the sushi bar. Here chef-owner Patrick Yam and his team strut their stuff. Yam still gets some fish flown in from Tokyo, and you might encounter madai (sea bream), baby yellowtail, fatty tuna, real king crab (not kani), live scallop, and sea urchin from California or Japan (or both). It follows that the ultimate Ginza experience is Yam’s omakase (literally, "trust the chef"): Sit at the sushi bar while he prepares, explains and serves the day’s most exciting offerings.
For less ambitious sushi eaters, there’s still plenty of reason to embrace Ginza. Specialty rolls abound, including a TNT roll comprised of chopped blue fin toro, tuna, avocado, mango garlic chips, and truffled soy, a hot oyster tempura roll, and the Movie Star made with black pepper tuna, spicy crabmeat, mango and crunch topped with avocado, eel sauce, and wasabi aioli wrapped in rice paper. There’s handrolls and naruto, or riceless, rolls and Ginza is also a great spot for a workaday dinner of sushi, udon or soba noodles, teriyaki or tempura.
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A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.
