Johnny Breads sells sourdough loaves on alternate weeks at the...

Johnny Breads sells sourdough loaves on alternate weeks at the winter market in Huntington Station. Credit: Brittainy Newman

During the growing season, Long Island boasts around 40 farmers markets. This winter, that number dwindles to five, and all of them are in Suffolk County. (The farthest west are Bayport, on Saturdays, and Huntington Station, on Sundays.)

Since the local harvest is slim — storage vegetables and greenhouse produce — the focus is on provisions made by local artisans: cheese, sausages, empanadas, soups, coffee, pickles, snack foods and countless baked goods: Almost every market boasts bakers embracing sourdough, shunning gluten and featuring every style in between.

Flexibility is the key to being a successful market shopper. Many vendors alternate markets from week to week and some only show up occasionally. Then again, there are a handful of vendors such as Horman’s Best Pickles, TerraNut (pure nut bars) and The Big Cheese (farmstead cheeses and charcuterie) who seem to show up everywhere simultaneously.

Most supplies are limited so remember that early birds often get the best worms.

BAYPORT FARMERS MARKET

Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. through March 22 at Bayport Flower House, 940 Montauk Hwy.

Freeze-dried candy from Freeze Dry LI at the South Shore...

Freeze-dried candy from Freeze Dry LI at the South Shore Farmers Market in Bayport. Credit: Linda Rosier

Yes, it’s a winter market, but now that palm trees have been placed strategically around the heated greenhouse, Bayport has a distinctly tropical feel. The first thing you'll see when you cross the threshold is Laurel’s Butters, owned by the market’s organizer, Laurel Bickford Shortell, and offering a range of protein-rich Laurel’s Butters, handcrafted from nuts and little else. Priscilla’s Farm from Southold brings delectable carrots, potatoes, rutabagas and other winter vegetables. Consider yourself lucky if you encounter olive oil from Turturici & Sons, grown by the Turturici family on the their land in Sicily. New this year is Bayport’s own Sunflower Cafe; the year-old French restaurant is selling a variety of quiches. Another local business, The Fish Store, offers a variety of fresh-caught fish and prepared foods. For something completely different, meet Freeze Dry L.I., "specializing in all your freeze-dried candy needs!" Turns out that if you freeze-dry candies like Jolly Ranchers, Charleston Chews, Skittles and Airheads, you get something crisp, puffy and very cool. Also cool: Micro Green Gardens, whose tiny greens pack a flavorful punch. You’ll also find artisanal breads from Bethany Sallese’s House of Gluten Free, Jones Beach Brewing, The Big Cheese, Pat’s Bakehouse, Tellie’s Market soups and Jon’s Kitchen Tools and more. That barking you hear? Last Chance Animal Rescue occupies a corner of the market with its tempting puppies. More info: https://www.instagram.com/southshorefarmersmarket_  

HUNTINGTON STATION FARMERS MARKET

Sundays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. through April 27 (no market on Easter) at Spirit of Huntington Art Center, 2 Melville Rd.

Cured meats from Ridgewood Pork Store at the Huntington Winter...

Cured meats from Ridgewood Pork Store at the Huntington Winter Farmers Market. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

This is the second year that Long Island’s oldest indoor market has taken up residence in the Spirit of Huntington Art Center and, behind the vendors, you can see paints, markers, scissors and other tools of the center’s trades. 4 E Green Farms, which maintains several greenhouses in Yaphank, brings a wide variety of fresh produce. On the artisan bread front, the venerable Orwashers alternates weeks with Johnny Breads, an upstart sourdough baker from Manhasset. Noms Bar None specializes in loaves of tender, rich milk bread as well as rolls made with that same milk-bread dough. You’ll also find breads, pies and cookies from Oyster Bay’s Moola Farm, as well as eggs and dairy products from the family’s farm in the Catskills. Ridgewood Pork Store makes the trek from Queens to introduce shoppers to the relatively unsung charcuterie of Eastern Europe, from smoked pork shoulders to lamb prosciutto. Butter Me Up Kitchen sells compound butters in pumped-up flavors such as honey-limoncello and maple-cinnamon-brown sugar. You’ll also find smoked salmon and other cured fish from Sir John Wincroft, coffee from Bauer’s Brew, tea from Preferred Matcha Tea Company, Turturici & Sons Sicilian olive oil, Pop Culture Cookies, Three French Hens baked goods, Dude's Gourmet spices mixtures (and one mean chicken salad), Jon’s Gourmet Mushrooms, Pam’s Jamz, piping-hot fried turnovers from Amped-panadas (see that they did there?) and dehydrated fruit (for humans) and dog treats from Gourmet Magic. More info: facebook.com/LIWinterMarket

PORT JEFFERSON FARMERS MARKET

Sundays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. through April 27 (no market on Easter) at the Village Center, 101 E. Broadway

Priscilla Howard, of Priscilla’s Farm, with winter vegetables sold at...

Priscilla Howard, of Priscilla’s Farm, with winter vegetables sold at several winter farmers markets. Credit: Linda Rosier

Port Jefferson’s harborside warm-weather market moves inside for the winter, but still has a view of the harbor from the village’s Shipyard Building. This is the rare winter market that has two sources of fresh produce: Sweet Melissa 1932 Farm, which sells a variety of produce both local and from a greenhouse in Pennsylvania, and, as long as they are still pulling things out of the ground, Leslie and Priscilla Howard of Priscilla’s Farm in Southold will bring potatoes, squash, rutabagas, herbs, carrots and sweet greens (kales, mustard and Asian greens among them). Mount Sinai’s ramen micro-factory, Happy Noodle, is selling its fresh noodles as well as kits that include noodles and broth. Parneh Baking makes extraordinarily tasty cookies with traditional ingredients such as sugar, flour, butter, chocolate and, occasionally, standout ingredients like Korean gochujang. Harvest 365 sells a variety of potted herbs (basils are a specialty), and then can hook you up with a hydroponic ladder garden in your own home. You’ll also find smoked salmon, bluefish and more from Riverhead-based Montauk Smoked Fish, a panoply of Jordanian spreads, sweets, pickles and pies from Naela’s Mediterranean Market, honey from O Honey Bee Farm, green tea and green-tea-based skin care products from Ahsak, nut bars from TerraNut, baked goods from Jessie’s Wildflour, sauces from Zito’s Traditions, Agnes’s Pierogies, mac-and-cheese from Tashana’s Kitchen. More info: portjeff.com

RIVERHEAD FARMERS MARKET

Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. through March 29 at Twin Fork Beer Co., 807 Raynor Ave.

Horman's Best Pickles at the East End Food Market in...

Horman's Best Pickles at the East End Food Market in Riverhead. Credit: Randee Daddona

All hail Twin Fork Beer Co., which has offered up its brewery floor for the second year in a row while construction continues on the Riverhead market’s permanent home, the East End Food Institute. Market stalwart and Brazilian native Ludmilla "Milla" Benevides has been selling the great Brazilian cheese puffs, pão de queijo, at her Milla’s Puffs. This year she’s introduced another naturally gluten-free creation, yuca sticks, a delicious and healthy take on Cheetos. Jessie's Wildflour specializes in sourdough breads; give the big, tender English muffins a try. Or spice up your salad with Urban Coyote Farm’s microgreens. Sweet Woodland Farm grows medicinal herbs on the North Fork, dries and packages them so that you can make your own infusions and tinctures. Pendleton’s Harvest Moon Farm in Riverhead raises sheep and chickens and you’ll find their lamb and eggs, as well as earrings fashioned from tiny chicken feathers. If you’re in the market for farmstead cheese, Consider Bardwell (from Vermont) or The Big Cheese is usually on hand. Have you been thinking about upping your cutting-board game? Green Door Woodworks makes a variety of end- and edge-grain boards. You’ll also find Mattituck Mushrooms, Angie’s Empanadas, Montauk Smoked Fish, Better Man Distilling and more. Who’s that fellow hunched over a typewriter? It’s Bruce Pandolfo, who produces "bespoke typewritten poetry" as well as wedding vows and other prose items while you wait. More info: Instagram: @riverheadfarmersmarket

WESTHAMPTON BEACH FARMERS MARKET

Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. through April 26 at St. Mark’s Church Parish Hall, 40 Main St.

Cheese from Mecox Bay Dairy at the Westhampton Beach Farmers...

Cheese from Mecox Bay Dairy at the Westhampton Beach Farmers Market. Credit: Randee Daddona

This winter market may be Long Island’s most welcoming. Vendors share the church’s parish hall with a blazing fire and comfortable couches. Your first stop might be Tend Coffee, the great Shirley roaster, which sells hot coffee and bagged beans. Then it’s on to Newlight Breadworks (founded on Long Island, now baking in the Bronx) with its sourdough, ciabatta, sandwich loaves and enormous Bavarian pretzels. "Taking simplicity to the next level" is the motto of Aki Goldberg’s Aki’s Kitchen. She freezes local produce to use all season long for her soups, sauces and salads. Bridgehampton’s Mecox Bay Dairy offers tastes of its prizewinning cheeses, and TerraNut sells its delicious and energy-packed Nut Punch bars which contain nothing more than nuts, seeds, spirulina (seaweed) and coconut nectar. You’ll also find Kalypso Greek specialties and yogurt (packaged in terra-cotta pots), South Shore Mushrooms, Jessy’s Empanadas, Pecks of Maine and Hampton Preserves, Pattycakes & Cookies, Vienna Coffee Company, Chowderhead Soup, Horman’s Best Pickles, Milla’s Puffs and more. Brooklyn’s Papa Pasquale Ravioli Company brings so many items to the market, it sets up outside near the parking lot. More info: More info: westhamptonchamber.org