JTI's American Kitchen and Bar opens in Brightwaters

The decadent short rib and baked onion soup at the new JTI's American Kitchen and Bar — loaded with Gruyere and provolone cheeses, beef short rib, and crispy onions — is served with safety scissors to neatly snip unwieldy cheese pulls as you eat. No mess, no chin burns. 

Credit goes to chef Nicholas Trovato, who has taken over the former Jon Thomas Inne in Brightwaters in a full circle story: It was the site of his first kitchen job in 1985. Putting modern twists on comfort food, this bright, renovated gastropub with high ceilings and exposed wood beams is housed in a historic building that's been around since 1925. 

Having cooked in country club kitchens before opening Husk and Vine Kitchen and Bar in St. James, Trovato offers a playful, eclectic menu with global inspiration similar to Husk, which he left in 2022. For starters, there’s charcuterie ($29) and bread and butter boards ($12), but also burnt end bacon ($17) caramelized like candy. There’s a rock shrimp tempura “bibimbap” rice bowl ($21) and addictive Kobe beef meatballs ($16), glazed with a sweet-chili teriyaki.

The house burger is a blackened Wagyu ($39) with blue cheese, bacon-onion jam, and onion rings. Steaks include a 40-ounce Porterhouse ($130), a carnivore’s grilled cheese with mortadella and prosciutto ($22), and yellowtail and ahi tuna poke ($33). A seasonal special of two crispy soft shell crabs piled delicately atop a bowl of creamy kani salad ($33) is not to be missed. 

Don't skip the cocktails, which are just as inventive. The sangria has boba, while bourbon is paired with chai tea. The Old Fashioned features candied slab bacon, and the martini is laced with elderflower liqueur. Add to that 10 wines by the glass, 11 draft pints alongside a $6 beer.

 The odd corner property off of Sunrise Highway is deceptively large with a separate dining room, and two private event spaces joining the expansive L-shaped bar and highball tables. While Trovato has plans for each, for now he's merely focused on “elevating the entire dining experience and getting the first phase right.” 

JTI’s American Kitchen and Bar, 91 Howells Rd., Brightwaters, 631-647-5900, jtisli.com. Open Tuesday — Wednesday from noon to 10 p.m., Thursday until 11 p.m., Friday until midnight, Saturday 3 p.m. to midnight, Sunday 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Mondays.

By Marie Elena Martinez

marieelena.martinez@newsday.com@mariesworlds

A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.