Autumn is a prized time of year on Long Island. The leaves turn, the thermometer dips and restaurants start to bring back soul-warming soups, hearty pastas, and, of course, pumpkin spice. With that comes a bevy of fall dining experiences, from fire pits and fall farm-to-table dining to alfresco wine and beer excursions, to spots serving oysters — now in season — and cozy regional Italian spots to get your pasta fix.
FIRE PIT
The Union
1899 Park Blvd., East Meadow
"People love the fire pits. There's something about an open flame on a fall evening that makes people linger a little longer or lean in to a conversation," said Elias Trahanas, cofounder of Trahanas Hospitality Group, which operates The Union at Eisenhower Park. The patio has seating for more than 100 overlooking the park's putting green and three fire pits are surrounded by cushioned wicker couches. Chef Tom Gloster’s menu includes Wagyu meatballs, duck tacos or breaded pork chop with cherry tomatoes, capers and grilled artichokes. Also available: a robust sushi menu with offerings such as the Japanese Bagel — tempura-fried "everything" sushi rice, schmeared with cream cheese and then draped with salmon, tuna and avocado. Fall specialties range from fried chicken kebabs, bucatini and clams to hot honey pizza and an apple tart with vanilla gelato for dessert round. The Smoked Old Fashion is a fire pit-worthy cocktail that gives off a husky cedar smoke upon delivery. More info: 516-684-9106, theunion.restaurant
Good Ground Tavern
Canoe Place, 239 E. Montauk Hwy., Hampton Bays
Canoe Place, the historic resort that was restored in 2022, boasts a restaurant with two beautiful dining rooms and a spacious patio adjacent to a fire pit (around which you can sit before or after your meal). On select Friday evenings starting on Oct. 18, family-friendly "Fireside Fridays" with s’mores, hot chocolate, hot cider and live music. Good Ground’s regular menu is seafood forward — clams casino, local fluke crudo, Peeko oysters, sea scallops with potato gnocchi, brioche-crusted Montauk tilefish — with land-based options as well. More info: 631-763-6300, canoeplace.com
Il Giardino
739 Main Rd., Aquebogue
"Giardino" means "garden" in Italian, and this North Fork restaurant lives up to its name: The garden of the 1830 building has been outfitted with trellises and pergolas and a fire pit. The menu is composed of Italian favorites, with a lot of seafood, befitting the location. More info: 631-779-3900, ilgiardinoaquebogue.com
Bayberry
501 Main St., Islip
Last year, the Lessings Hospitality Group transformed Maxwell’s into Bayberry, a modern bistro with a menu of global comforts: lobster roll, French onion soup, tacos filled with Peking duck or poke tuna, salmon with risotto, French dip, pork Milanese. What hasn’t changed is that there’s still a fireplace inside and a mesmerizing fire pit on the patio. More info: 631-210-0011, bayberryislip.com
COUNTRY-STYLE ITALIAN
New: Talina
376 Deer Park Rd., Babylon
Talina recently opened in Babylon, focusing on the flavors of Romagna, the southeastern half Italy’s Emilia-Romagna. Named for co-owner Pietro Faetanini’s late grandmother, skylights and exposed brick create a warm atmosphere that suits the tight menu of handmade pastas and grilled meats, as well as the region’s traditional piadina bread. Stuffed with prosciutto, cheese, and mushrooms or arugula, the piadina is a perfect starter. Strozzapreti, a long, lean pasta, is rolled and twisted by hand and served with sausage ragu and arugula. Potato gnocchi is doused with Taleggio cheese, arugula and radicchio, hand-stuffed spinach ravioli shines bright red covered in a chunky, flavorful Pomodoro sauce, while a tagliatelle is enhanced by Nonna Talina’s meaty pork, beef and peas ragu. The succulent, grilled meat boards come in three sizes, and include lamb chops, pork ribs, and sausage accompanied by all of the veggie sides on offer.
A lush cocktail bar churns out creations like the peanut butter and jelly espresso martini. Faetanini smokes his drinks and makes his own syrups, which results in both visual and culinary art. With only 15 tables and bar seating, Talina is a cozy escape.. The back of the restaurant features a mural of Talina herself, wielding her pasta roller, many of which are also arranged in an installation hanging from the ceiling. More info: 631-572-7987
Orto
90 North Country Rd., Miller Place
Orto has that country-farmhouse thing down pat, and you’ll find forthright pleasure in chef-owner Eric Lomando’s food. His devotion to seasonality and local ingredients is deeply Italian at its root, and finds expression here in a superlative fritto misto, spot-on pastas, braised meats and homey-elegant desserts. More info: 631-862-0151, restaurantorto.com
The Farm Italy
12 Gerard St., Huntington
Appointed in weathered wood, bleached brick and rich leather, this sprawling eatery conveys the elegance and hospitality of a Tuscan fantasy, although its menu roams all over the boot — and into steakhouse territory as well. Among the pastas are a classic bucatini cacio e pepe and pappardelle Bolognese. Non-steak mains include elegant renderings of chicken, veal and eggplant Parmesan; grilled salmon with Sicilian caponata. More info: 631-824-6000, thefarmitaly.com
Uva Rossa
243 Hempstead Ave., Malverne
Since 2013, Antonio Bove’s intimate Italian has been satisfying Malverne and surrounding environs with its rustic charm and confident cooking. Start with meatballs (traditional and eggplant) or Messina-style beef spiedini and move on to regional pastas such as busiate with pesto Trapanese, gnocchetti Sardi and paccheri Genovese (from Naples). There’s also terrific Neapolitan pizza. More info: 516-612-7400, uvarossa.com
DINING OUT ON THE FARM
New: Fyr & Salt
4735 Cox Lane, Cutchogue
There’s locally sourced and then there’s walking out the door of your kitchen to collect eggs laid that morning. That’s the position Max Mohrmann and Jonathan Shearman now find themselves in at their new café and market at 8 Hands Farm in Cutchogue. As chefs and partners in the live-fire caterer Fyr & Salt, they have always prized North Fork produce, but now they have 24-hour access to 8 Hands heritage-breed chickens, sheep and pigs. What this means for you is that from Thursday to Sunday, you can visit the farm and have a meal at one of the café’s long tables or outside overlooking the pastures and beds of herbs and greens.
The ever-changing menu features sandwiches (on homemade bread) such as eggs with house-smoked pastrami, Gruyère and pickled onion or house-cured ham with Havarti, pickles and mustard. There are za’atar lamb meatballs with cucumber and feta salad; English-style hand pies, soups and more. The café occupies one half the red barn; the other half is a specialty market where you can find 8 Hands’ meat and charcuterie as well as a terrific assortment of pickles, cheeses and condiments as well as beans, pastas and other dry goods made outside Cutchogue. More info: 631-494-6155, fyrandsalt.com
North Tavern
2028 North Country Rd., Wading River
Just short of the North Fork is a collection of farms — Andrews, Bakewicz, Condzella’s and Hayden’s Orchard, among them — that makes this corner of Long Island a perfect fall destination. To eat, head to charming Wading River where you’ll find North Tavern, a venture that tests the limits of the phrase "family owned and operated." Drew Wendelken is the executive chef, assisted by his nephew, Justin. Drew’s brother, Brian, his wife, Carol, and Brian’s wife, Denise, run the front of the house. The menu boasts nachos, burgers, pasta, short ribs and more family-friendly favorites. More info: 631-886-2102, northtavernwr.com
Lucharitos Farm
177 Main St., Center Moriches
Part of Marc LaMaina’s growing empire of Lucharitos restaurants, "the farm" rambles over more than an acre of varied outdoor dining areas. The menu will be familiar to patrons of the original Lucharitos in Greenport and its outposts in Aquebogue, Mattituck and Melville. The exuberant take on Mexican and Mexican American street food — tacos filled with coconut shrimp, quesadillas made with local duck — may all be washed down with premium tequilas, beer and Mexican soft drinks. More info: 631-400-9625, lucharitos.com
Painters’ Restaurant
416 S. Country Rd., Brookhaven
Home to Early Girl, Deer Run and H.O.G. farms, pastoral Brookhaven Hamlet has a high farm-to-restaurant ratio, and Painters’ is the place to eat. A rollicking place with equally high-spirited fare ranging from the classic (marinated skirt steak and iron-skillet roasted chicken) to the extravagant (mango, avocado, pecan and goat cheese salad; and grilled cheese with Buffalo chicken). So-called "genius burgers" bear the names of artists such as Michelangelo, Georgia O’Keeffe and, of course, Francis Bacon. More info: 631-803-8593, paintersrestaurant.com
OYSTERS IN SEASON
New: Off the Hook Freeport
195 Woodcleft Ave., Freeport
Iglent Fejzulla opened Off the Hook Raw Bar & Grill in Astoria in 2013, but his dream was always "to bring the concept to the water." In May, he took over the old River House Grill and his own touches to the interior and outside deck. An Albanian immigrant, Fejzulla’s menu draws from his travels along the Atlantic coast, encompassing fish dishes from New England clam chowder and lobster rolls to tequila-chorizo "drunken" mussels, whereas his shrimp mofongo and fried red snapper with tostones are inspired by the Caribbean. A raw bar features clams, local oysters (when in season) and platters that incorporate shrimp and mussels.
Not into fish? There’s Buffalo cauliflower, watermelon or Caesar salads, cheesesteaks, grilled sirloin steaks, country-fried pork chop and more. Determined to attract a more culinary crowd in a destination better known for imbibing, in addition to cocktails and beers, there’s a thoughtful wine list with selections from Spain, Italy, France, Germany, New Zealand, California, Washington and New York’s Finger Lakes. More info: 516-442-0600, offthehooknyc.com/long-island.
Minnow at the Galley Ho
650 1st St., New Suffolk
Since it opened last summer, Minnow at the Galley is taking culinary sustainability to new heights with a menu composed largely of local produce and no tolerance for shrimp, salmon and any other sea creature that does not swim in these waters.The localist thing on the menu is unquestionably the Peeko oysters, farmed within view of the restaurant in Little Peconic Bay, the company’s headquarters at the adjoining New Suffolk property. Oysters are served with mignonette made with fermented local fruit. More info: 631-734-8474, minnowrestaurant.com
Catch Oyster Bar
63 N. Ocean Ave., Patchogue
A favorite neighborhood hangout, Catch is also one of Long Island’s very best purveyors of oysters. Every day, the chalkboard lists at least a half dozen varieties along with critical information such as location, size and salinity. Local entries such as Fire Island Blue (Great South Bay), Naked Cowboy (Long Island Sound) and Violet Coves (Moriches Bay) mix it up with interlopers such as Pink Moon (Prince Edward Island) and Kusshi (British Columbia). More info: 631-627-6860
Waterzooi
850 Franklin Ave., Garden City
The undisputed signature bivalve at this Belgian brasserie is the mussel, available in more than a dozen steamed guises. But the long, rollicking bar is also a great place for oysters — the selection includes both East Coast and West Coast. And whether your preferred oyster quaff is wine or beer, Waterzooi has a great selection of both. More info: 516-877-2177, waterzooi.com
OFF THE WINE TRAIL
New: Main & Mill, Jamesport
1291 Main Rd., Jamesport
Opened in June, the sister tasting room to rosé-heavy Croteaux in Southold and picturesque Rose Hill Vineyards & Inn in Mattituck (formerly Shinn Estate), is a posh, meticulously styled country house serving mixed wine flights alongside a selection of noshes. First-come, first-served guests can take a seat in the chic indoor area anchored by blue velvet couches, a fireplace and deep mahogany bar — or head outside to the pebbled garden, peppered with black-and-white striped umbrellas shading stone bistro tables and wooden benches.
Wine flights include five tastings for $30. Three white wines are available by the glass, including the 2023 Coalescence, a white blend; three rosés include Croteaux’s sparkling cuvèe; four reds including the 2023 Mojo, Rose Hill’s 2022 merlot, which ferments in oak for 20 months. Pair with cheese, charcuterie and crudité boards, puff pastry-wrapped pigs in blankets, honey goat cheese dip with breadsticks, or a simple shrimp cocktail. Get extra fancy with Tater Tots with Osetra caviar and crème fraîche. More info: 631-779-2177; mainandmillhouse.com
Del Vino Vineyards
29 Norwood Rd., Northport
Since 2018, the Giachetti family has been providing a little slice of the North Fork conveniently located in Northport. This picturesque 11-acre winery offers indoor and outdoor seating where you can enjoy charcuterie and cheese boards, salads and sandwiches and other wine-friendly bites along with glasses or bottles of Del Vino’s dozen-plus varieties. Reservations are required and more formal tastings are by appointment only. More info: 844-335-8466, delvinovineyards.com
Insieme Wines
3333 Lawson Blvd., Oceanside
Located on an industrial stretch of Lawson Boulevard, Insieme ("together" in Italian) does not fit the mental picture many people have of a winery: There are no grapevines growing outside, no patio overlooking a bucolic scene. But the definition of a winery is a place where they make wines and that’s precisely what Massimo DeVellis and his partners have been doing here since 2022. The accomplished wines here range from cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay to less well-known sagrantino, teroldego and tempranillo. There are boards, flatbreads and salads to enjoy as well. Care to learn more? Sign up for a class or a tour. More info: 516-696-3300, insiemewines.com
Otherside Wine Bar
149 Glen St., Glen Cove
Ten years ago, Mark Boccard elevated the Island’s java scene with his Southdown Coffee in Huntington, eventually opening six satellites. The Glen Cove location occupied one half a historic saltbox and, in June, he installed a wine bar in the building’s ... other side, a vaulted, wood-lined space whose 200-year-old bones have been updated with modern light fixtures, a sleek bar and tables. The menu consists of elegant small plates designed to complement the wine list which is composed exclusively of "natural wines," made using traditional methods, with organic grapes and no additives. There are about 50 bottles — whites, reds, sparklers, rosés and orange wines — mostly from France and Italy but with selections from Germany, Spain, California, New Zealand and Long Island. More info: otherside.wine
BEER GARDENS
New: Riverhead Brew House
221 E. Main St., Riverhead
Lily Flanagan’s Restaurant Group has pushed into the East End and is now brewing its own beer. Their space, which takes over the previous Peconic County Brewing Company, has river reviews from both the dining room and the patio.
Beer production is overseen by brewmaster Greg Doroski (formerly of Greenport Harbor Brewing Company), and right now, they're brewing an Iron Pier IPA, a malty Double IPA, and their NoFo Pumpkin beer, a light, palatable option that stands in contrast to many of the heavier Oktoberfest lagers. Fall cocktail specials also abound and include the Sweater Weather, red sangria with pomegranate, pear and fall spices, the Fall Old Fashioned with maple syrup, maple bitters and chives, and the Sanderson Spritz, aka an Aperol spritz laced with apple cider. There's also an espresso martini with cold Guinness foam. The kitchen, which features a rotating cast of specials every two weeks, serves casual fare such as Bavarian pretzels, wings, nachos, sliders and burgers, pizzas and sandwiches such as the RBH dip, pepper-crusted roast beef on a garlic roll with cheese and caramelized onions. For fall? Pumpkin soup, corn chowder, meatloaf, and a focaccia (made in-house) sandwich with mozzarella, pesto, and arugula. More info: 631-212-1265, riverheadbrewhouse.com
Root + Branch
360 Marconi Blvd., Copiague
One of the best new breweries on Long Island, Root + Branch took over an old wood shop in the shadow of the LIRR tracks. Somehow brewer Anthony Sorice and his partners transformed the space into a dead-chic indoor-outdoor tasting room where, Thursday to Sunday, you can also have a terrific pie from Nico’s pizza truck, manned by Sorice’s father, Frank, and brother, Chris. To drink: nuanced Northeastern-style IPA's and sour beers like Ibidem, a Berliner Weisse brewed with fermented pinot noir grapes. More info: rootandbranchbrewing.com
Shippy’s
36 Windmill Lane, Southampton
It’s always sorta Oktoberfest at Shippy’s, which has been serving German food in Southampton since 1954. In 2022, Southampton native (and former CEO of McDonald’s Canada) John Betts bought the place, updating and refreshing it without forfeiting its Old World charm. To accompany the schnitzel, sauerbraten and wursts, Shippy’s offers 10 beers on tap and another 20 in bottles and cans. Enjoy at the bar, in the dining room or in the charming garden. During the month of October, you’ll find the staff in costume (lederhosen for the men, dirndls for the women) and a $46 prix-fixe German menu. More info: 631-283-0007, shippys.com
Das Biergarten
1148 W. Beech St., Long Beach
Das Biergarten injects the West End with a shot of Gemütlichkeit, the German term for a feeling of warmth and cheer. Sample wursts, schnitzels, sauerbraten and cheese spaetzle alongside plenty of German beer — Munich-based Paulaner, Radeberger Pilsner, Schofferhofer Grapefruit Hefeweizen and others are all on tap. More info: 516-897-2437, dasbiergarten.com
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