A model walks the runway at the Calvin Klein Spring...

A model walks the runway at the Calvin Klein Spring '13 fashion show on Seventh Avenue in New York. (Sept. 12, 2012) Credit: Bruce Gilbert

Calvin Klein was Fashion Week’s closer on Thursday afternoon, as Francisco Costa presented one of his edgiest collections to date. The primarily black and white show opened with a black matte satin dress that revealed a highly structured conical bustier, not nearly as extreme as that famously pointed Madonna number, but a look that made you sit up and take notice.

The clothes appeared somewhat armor-like in parts, with thick, geometric structuring such as bands that sat off the shoulder on one dress. In many looks, however, there was a suggestive femininity – bare and exposed necklines or sheer fabrics that showed the dress or legs underneath. Costa gave a glimpse inside fabrics by contrasting seams, or double vents that rippled when the clothes moved. A frame of silver metal drew the eye to the bustier of several dresses.

That “wow” moment in the show came when a dress that featured what looked like a spun black sugar cage around it hit the runway. Comprised of black bands, the “cage” sat atop a body-conscious dress. It was captivating. 

The whole show had a dark, sexy, slightly subversive vibe, and in notes, Costa called it “seductive.” Fashion and beauty expert Mary Alice Stephenson summed up the power of the collection: “These are the kind of clothes that say, ‘Look at me. I’m serious.’” And trust us, people will look. Seriously.
 

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