Rising stars shine during Fashion Week
While the fashion flock hotly anticipates the seasonal collections of big-name designers, the cognoscenti know the big ideas often come from the not-so-big names.
Some of that new talent will be showcased at the first ever Ecco Domani runway presentation during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, which starts tomorrow. A handful of fashion's rising stars (and get this, one is a Long Islander) have been whittled down from a field of hundreds by a panel of fashion heavyweights.
They are the recipients of the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation award, each receiving $25,000 to present their collection. "It's a modest award but the implications are quite important," says Sally Singer, Vogue's fashion news/features director and one of the judges. Past winners have included the likes of Zac Posen, Rodarte and Peter Som.
"It's not a popularity contest," Singer says. "These are people who have a certain energy and excitement to their brand and seem to be in the early stages of something important."
Something important, indeed. "It's like going from the little league to the big league, and this is the bridge to take them there," says style guru Robert Verdi, the EDFF spokesman.
Here's a look at three of the winners; for more, go to eccodomani.com.
THE COOL CAT
Who Ross Menuez, Salvor Projects
Details Menuez was born and bred in Northport, and has done everything from building houses in Nicaragua to running a metal studio in Brooklyn to designing furniture in London and Tokyo. His hand-printed work is stunningly graphic and has a cult following.
Inspirations Jackson Pollock and his own daughter, India Salvor (hence the label) Menuez, 16, who he says is his muse.
Who wears it Probably some heavies, but Menuez isn't the type to keep track, though he thinks Björk owns some pieces.
The collection About 18 looks in all, retailing for $250 for a T-shirt of lacerated strips of fabric to quilted pieces for $900. His fave this season: primitive computer art writing programs printed on leggings.
Dream clients "I'm not ready for Lady Gaga yet," says Menuez. But he'd be happy with Sophia Loren or Penélope Cruz.
Singer says "Ross has a very strong artisanal hand and a very interesting sense of textiles, yet keeps the purity of line," says Vogue's Sally Singer. "It's a tough act to pull off. Everything that we put on a model was incredibly beautiful."
THE HOT TICKET
Who Prabal Gurung
Details The buzz around Gurung is so loud that it's almost audible. He's the only one of the EFF winners to host his own show in the tents, and people want in - badly. Singapore born and raised, he moved to New York in 1999, interned with Donna Karan while attending Parsons, worked at Cynthia Rowley and was design director at Bill Blass for five years.
Who wears it Some serious fashion players, including Oprah Winfrey, Demi Moore, Leighton Meester and Rachel Weisz
Inspiration Fall 2010 is inspired by "speed, motion and movement," Gurung says. And all of his work is designed for "a global woman, who is always chic and never vulgar, intelligent, nuanced, independent and comfortable in her own skin."
The collection About 30 pieces that range from $330 for a knit to $4,500 for a gown. Look for pops of red and a new "murky bottle-y green" shade in the lineup. Fave this season: A camel and white cashmere sheath that he calls "very restrained."
Dream client Michelle Obama, Gurung says. "In fashion, she truly embodies what it means to be a woman of today. She's beautiful, elegant, confident and poised, and instead of taking the usual fashion route, she takes risks."
Singer says "His clothes are impeccable. He speaks to the values we see in Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera. It's not clothes trying to look young, but trying to look beautiful."
THE WILD THINGS
Who Phillipe Rollano and David Trujillo, The Blonds
Details Rollano, formerly an illustrator and makeup artist, was born in Puerto Rico and raised in New York City. His dramatic personal style (often dressing as a woman) is "a form of self-expression," says business and life partner Trujillo, who hails from Miami, and has a background in window design and retail interiors.
Inspirations "Music and film," Trujillo says. "Also, my grandmother baked wedding cakes with the whole spiel - Champagne fountains and sugar details."
Who wears it Performers such as Fergie, Rihanna and Katy Perry, though, Trujillo says, "we're moving towards making it a special-occasion brand for civilians, too."
The collection "With us, it's all about crystals and anything that sparkles. We're magpies," Trujillo says. Corsets range from $5,000 to $7,000; embellished waist cinchers and corset dresses start at $10,000. Of the upcoming show: Don't come if you have a weak heart, they warn. "It's going to be a roller coaster."
Dream clients "We have always dreamed of collaborating with Kylie Minogue," Trujillo says.
Singer says "I love The Blonds. The quality, the craftsmanship, the sheer imagination ... they're beyond Bob Mackie with chain mail, glitter, corsetry and the hippest cocktail numbers. These guys do it with humor and proportion and are over-the-top sexy."