
420 North in Great Neck: First bites

Porterhouse steak served on a plate at 420 North restaurant in Great Neck. Credit: Newsday / Peter Gianotti
The exit of Oevo in Great Neck prompted an immediate question: What happened to that pizza oven?
Well, it's working just fine at 420 North, which succeeds Oevo at the Northern Boulevard address. Actually, a lot of things are good at 420 North.
Friendly service, warm style and dependable cooking contribute early on. So, sample one of those pizzas, especially the four-cheese number capped with Gruyere, Gorgonzola, Asiago and mozzarella; or maybe the "aviator," which flies in with Gorgonzola, caramelized onion and pear.
Flavorful bucatini with calamari and shellfish in a spirited red sauce also stands out, along with a juicy porterhouse steak. The "open cannoli" arrives as a flower-shaped shell filled with tasty, creamy ricotta.
Owner John Ringle formerly was executive chef at Vittorio's in Amityville; and operated Avanti restaurants in Baldwin and Seaford.
Appetizers, salads and pizzas are $8 to $15; pastas and main courses, $16 to $33.
420 North, 420 Northern Blvd., Great Neck; 516-504-9690.
Photo: Sliced porterhouse steak at 420 North.