Boat House Waterside Cafe

The Boat House Waterside Cafe is situated where The Hideaway used to be, tucked in the Brewer Yacht Yard in Glen Cove. It's one of those apropos spots from which to see the season set sail.

But before you start thinking about Labor Day weekend and beyond, sip a drink al fresco, at tables shaded by umbrellas advertising Ferrarelle mineral water. Enjoy the boats and the water. Figure how long it would take to go those 12 miles from Brewer to Hell Gate and the East River.

Inside, the restaurant has seaside hues and a friendly staff. You can come for breakfast fare, sandwiches, burgers, salads and bigger main dishes. The adjoining barroom gets pretty lively on a weekend night.

That Boat House "deluxe burger," with Cheddar and smoked bacon, suits the place as much as do the Cajun rock-shrimp poppers and the more-sweet-than-spicy kung pao calamari. The Thai-style mussels with an aroma of coconut are satisfying. Wasabi pea crusted tuna doesn't give you much from the snacky peas, or from wasabi, but the fish is fine.

Desserts fittingly focus on ice cream.