How does dining at Applebee's measure up in 2024? 

How is Applebee's doing these days? If you look at a map of Long Island, it seems like it’s better than a mouthful of riblets. The "neighborhood grill" still sports 20 locations across Nassau and Suffolk counties, although the one in Deer Park has no servers and is technically the "world’s first to-go only Applebee’s." So maybe we should just say, 19 and a half.

The corporation, bought by IHOP in 2019, announced earlier this year that it would close up to 35 stores nationwide, but none on Long Island. Like it or not, Applebee’s plays an important role in suburban identity.

I recently visited Applebee’s in Valley Stream to see what the experience is like these days. This is not the location I grew up on, but interestingly it’s connected to Green Acres Mall and next to TGI Fridays and Red Lobster.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The entryway was a barrage of advertisements, including a stylized poster showing dribbling boneless wings in a golden goblet. A menu page featured vibrantly colored alcohols in plastic buckets. A sticker cued diners to "join or team" by texting #wow to 97211.

In the dining room, the wallpaper screamed local sports Americana, with blown-up photos of Hofstra football players and the Adelphi University baseball team. There was even a montage of Valley Stream firefighters saluting the American flag. This Applebee’s was a New York melting pot, with customers speaking Spanish and the sheer diversity of diners.

DINING AT APPLEBEE'S

Most locations are open until midnight, which means freedom for teenagers.

At the Valley Stream location, I suspected many were there for the same thing: spectacularly underpriced bar food. The menu was much larger than remembered. With so many foldout add-ons it almost felt like going to a diner.

Most people get the "two for $26," the server said. That used to be the "two for $20."

Nevertheless, it’s still a screaming deal. It came with two entrées plus an appetizer, which meant that after tax and tip, two people can get out of here for under 40 bucks.

And then there are the half-priced appetizers after 10 p.m., like chicken wonton tacos and mozzarella sticks. My teenage-era favorite, the spinach artichoke dip ($7.50 during happy hour), arrived looking as good as ever, the shallow casserole dish of greens loaded up with melty cheese that was just slightly browned on the top. No matter that the thin tortilla chips were slightly stale. The combination was a satisfying guilty pleasure.

On the other hand, "America’s favorite boneless wings" ($8.50 during happy hour) did not live up to their lofty title. They tasted like any regular boneless buffalo wing, easier to eat, but not nearly as satisfying as a bone-in.

Likewise with the entrées on the "2 for $26” menu. The chicken tenders were a little over-fried and not nearly as good as the ones at Chili’s. The Bourbon Street chicken and shrimp reminded me more of a cafeteria than anything you’d consume in New Orleans, tourist area or not. It did, however, sizzle a little on its cast iron skillet, which was fun.

DOES APPLEBEE'S HOLD UP?

In the end, there was no room for the Triple Chocolate Meltdown, or the Oreo shake that was immortalized in the 2021 country song "Fancy Like." ("Two straws, one check girl, I got you.") There was so much food on the table, we could have used a couple of hungry teenagers to help us finish it.

I left thinking that Applebee’s is more relevant than ever. Even as a professional food snob, I couldn't turn my nose up at a good deal, especially considering food prices these days. Maybe someday we’ll be back at the Macaroni Grill, but until then, I’m "Eatin’ good in the neighborhood."

Applebee's, multiple locations including 1126 Green Acres Rd. S, Valley Stream, 516-872-7200, applebees.com. Open 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. 

By Andi Berlin

andi.berlin@newsday.comAndiBerlin

Andi Berlin is from Arizona and does not know where she is going. But when she gets there, she’ll find something beautiful and delicious that the world needs to taste.