Artie's in Island Park: Doing swimmingly

It had been way too long since I’d last eaten at Artie’s South Shore Fish & Grill, the Island Park fish market/fish house whose owner, Artie Hoernig, nets some of what he sells and serves. Hoernig  first launched the market in 1974, adding the restaurant in 1999.

A recent lunch for two began with a fresh, generous tuna tartare ($9.95), cubes of just-cut raw tuna in a Vidalia onion dressing molded over a vibrant cucumber salad — an arrangement both pretty and delectable.

Hoernig makes a great lobster roll, the chunky lobster salad subtly perfumed with fresh tarragon and piled high on a lightly toasted buttered brioche hot dog roll, accompanied by addictive hand-cut sweet potato fries and mustardy coleslaw. My pal’s linguine with white clam sauce, made with lots of freshly shucked clams and just enough garlic, tasted great, even if it was a bit soupy.

While there’s some patio seating, it wasn’t accessible when I was there, since a fish delivery was in progress.

Keep in mind that the amenities are basic: You eat on plastic and Styrofoam plates. Hoernig doesn't accept credit cards, although he will take a personal check.

Artie’s South Shore Fish & Grill is at 4257 Austin Blvd., Island Park, 516-889-0692.

So pretty, the tuna tartare at Artie's South Shore Fish & Grill. Sprightly and delicious, too.