BBD's Beer Burgers Desserts review

BBD's -- Beers Burgers Desserts in Rocky Point -- has it all covered. There's a state-of-the-art tap system that goes beyond beer (craft and local) to whiskey and bourbon. A menu with its own bacon section. Burgers, both haute and humble. A few vegetarian and vegan choices. Plus killer desserts.

You'll also find video games near the front and a few tables designed for icing beer bottles. It all goes down in a setting of polished wood, gleaming metal and local art put together by chef-owner Ralph Perrazzo, a Lake Grove native who's cooked at such high-profile restaurants as Jean-Georges in Manhattan and Clio in Boston. A no-reservations policy may mean a wait. And the place can reverberate.

Dinner takes off with jalapeño chicken wings, mildly fiery. Asian duck drumettes, though, are a bit chewy. Better is the opulent bacon-and-pretzel-crusted mac and cheese. Mini Chicago hot dog sliders are the real deal, down to the sport peppers and celery salt. And consider sharing the irresistible grilled candied bacon wedge salad with baby iceberg and Roquefort.

Perrazzo grinds his beef in-house. You can get a smoky, delicious 12-ounce wood-and-charcoal-grilled burger on a toasted brioche bun with the restaurant's logo branded into the top. But optional add-ons (75 cents to $2.50), from American cheese to bacon jam to avocado, can jack up your tab. You even have to pay 50 cents for "fun" sauces, like sriracha ketchup. For a lot less, you can get a smaller, griddle-cooked quarter-pound burger, single or double, topped with "the works" and delivering beefy satisfaction. Mainly for White Castle fans: a burger steamed over onions. Gratis with most burgers are humdrum previously frozen crinkle cut fries; upgrading to fresh-cut runs an extra $2. Sheesh.

A real surprise is the fine house-made falafel burger with all the Mediterranean trimmings. But skip the ornate over-sweet chicken and waffle burger, a fried chicken patty tucked between two waffles with pear slaw, maple malt mayo and honey butter.

Shakes and malts are clean-tasting, intense. To share -- or hog -- a mini French toast apple pie with sour cream ice cream. Or Perrazzo's gorgeous milk chocolate praline with ice cream, cashew butter and panna cotta. Says a server: "It's like a Kit Kat Bar." But, really, way beyond.