Big Daddy's East opens in Bay Shore

In New Orleans' French Quarter, there are (at least) two kinds of ways to eat and drink — the Hurricanes and sometimes greasy food of Bourbon Street, and the more nuanced Creole food farther off the beaten track.

Big Daddy's East, which opened in Bay Shore a week ago, lassoes them both with a menu that captures Nola's polyglot cuisine without hewing too hard to po'boy and gator-burger stereotypes.

The restaurant, co-owned by Melissa Sutherland and Peter Sheskier, is the eastern spur of Big Daddy's in Massapequa, which Sheskier opened in 1993. In contrast to that location's more casual vibe, Big Daddy's East is soaring and elegant, with a dramatic marble bar and centerpiece chandelier, plus plenty of brick, gas lanterns, curtains and dining nooks. In Nola-esque fashion, there's an oyster bar and shucker positioned near the front door — though in place of gulf oysters are Blue Points and Lucky 13s.

Chef Adam Anders worked alongside Emeril Lagasse for several years, and his menu combines Cajun, Creole, Vietnamese and even Czech touches. Charbroiled oysters Rockefeller with smoked-bacon breadcrumbs ($18), Southern-fried chicken with peach dumplings ($32), and barbecue rainbow trout with fried green tomatoes and maque choux ($27) make appearances. The kitchen also smokes meats in house, such as smoked pork for weekend brunch and smoked "Viet-Cajun" duck wings, which are served as an appetizer over vermicelli noodles with a pho reduction and shower of Thai basil ($14.)

The bar program is ambitious, with 10 taps — some hooked to local brews from Moustache Brewing Co. and Barrier Brewing Co., among others — plus an eclectic bottle and can list, including canned local cider from Wölffer Estate. The cocktail menu, created by bar manager Michael Thomas, combines New Orleans stalwarts such as Hurricanes, Sazeracs and Ramos Gin Fizz with original creations based on Rittenhouse Rye, jasmine-tea-infused vodka and Plantation 3 Stars rum. 

Bid Daddy's East is open every day for lunch and dinner, as well as for weekend brunch.

Big Daddy's East, 44-46 Main St., Bay Shore, 631-968-2505, bigdaddyseast.com