Dining in Mineola: 5 picks
One wall of Heart of Portugal in Mineola is covered with a mural. Here, a detail of peasants dancing in front of a church. (Dec. 4, 2013) Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus
Smack in the middle of Nassau County, Mineola offers a panoply of dining options. Keep this list handy next time you’re called for jury duty.
At this venerable Portuguese stronghold, the menu and the daily specials nodded in New- and Italian-American directions but focus on the gutsy cuisine of Portugal and you can’t go wrong: Fat chourica sausage flambéed tableside, bolinhos de bacalhau (fluffy little croquettes of whipped cod and potatoes), grilled octopus topped with sauteed peppers. For dessert, don’t miss the towering wedge of Pavlova — a quivering pouf of browned meringue topped with sliced almonds and a bittersweet caramel. $$-$$$
241 Mineola Blvd., Mineola, 516-742-9797, heartofportugalrestaurant.com.
Secreted away in an industrial section of Mineola is a 1940s vintage railroad-car diner. In its gleaming interior, some of the most satisfying Louisiana-style food in these parts awaits. Dig into one of the flaky, crusty, meltingly delicious biscuits or the fried chicken with waffles. Slow-smoked chicken wings and spice-pebbled ribs have great depth of flavor. Prepare to sweat over the chicken and andouille gumbo, jambalaya and blackened salmon. For dessert, cobblers and pies are homey and good. $$
106 E 2nd St. Mineola, NY 516-493-9797
Chef-owner Robert Franceschini’s menu blends Italian-American with the cooking of his native Emilia-Romagna, home of Italy’s most sophisticated pasta. It follows that his homemade pasta is excellent — and unlike most “homemade” pasta on Long Island, it’s actually made on the premises. The ravioli are justly renowned; specials of spinach-and-ricotta crespelle (crepes) and lasagna verde Bolognese are excellent, and even war horses such as chicken Francese are done with care and finesse. $$-$$$.
Piccolo’s is at 150 E. Jericho Tpke., Mineola, 516-248-8110, piccolosny.com.
George Echeverria has starred at high-end continental-fusion restaurants Soigné in Woodmere and Amicale in Huntington Station; plus the more modest Italian Andiamo in Mineola. At his new Eric’s Italian Bistro, he combines all three in a warm, friendly space. Recommended: “Italian sushi” antipasto, shrimp-and-chorizo risotto, pan-seared crabcake, filet mignon.) With any of these, order the goat cheese-and-potato souffle, a turret of lushness followers of the chef may recall from his earlier eateries.) $$$
70 East Old Country Road, Mineola, 516-280-5675, ericsbistro.com
JANE CAFE
This winning little Korean-Japanese eatery exudes warmth and good cheer, and serves good food to boot. Start with the homey pork dumplings or pajeon, the pleasantly greasy Korean scallion-and-seafood pancake (or both). Dolsot bibimpap is a screaming-hot stone bowl filled with rice, vegetables, beef and a fried egg, one of the world’s great meals-in-a-bowl. Or warm up with a big, satisfying bowl of beef broth with cellophane noodles and chunks of short rib. Jane Café has a full sushi menu but I can’t really see why anyone would “go Japanese” in the face of so many intriguing Korean dishes.
92 Main St. Mineola, 516-742-0031.
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