Dozo Dozo opens in Woodbury

For the past 19 months, Jimmy Zhuo, owner of Woodbury’s new Dozo Dozo, has been waiting for his permits to open. Zhuo opened the doors last week to his new Japanese spot in the Woodbury Commons shopping center.

This swank newcomer is meticulously designed and feels more upscale than your typical neighborhood sushi bar. An exposed brick wall and piping on the ceiling give the room an industrial loft feel, enhanced by a marble and tiled bar, a spacious back sushi counter, plus natural leather and bamboo accents.

The chef hails from Manhattan’s Hatsuhana, which honors the traditional Japanese service focused on preparing fish without gimmicks. What's different here: the Dozo Dozo hand rolls, which Zhuo likens “to a taco,” using seaweed as the vessel, like a tortilla. There are 12 hand rolls (starting at $9) — merely a couple of bites — using different fish and sauces, all served over a sprinkling of sushi rice. Try the spicy tuna with mayo and sweet potato chips or spicy yellowtail with shishito peppers. There's also eel with avocado, and miso blackened cod with a Kobucha puree. Choose five for a $40 tasting plate. Four premium hand rolls excluded from the tasting include blue crab, garlic mayo and sautéed onion ($13), and uni, wagyu, and truffled caviar ($25) in a riff on surf and turf.

Past the hand roll service, there’s a more typical selection of Japanese appetizers, from shumai to gyoza, rock shrimp tempura to yakitori, as well as extensive sushi, sashimi, traditional and specialty rolls like the Magic roll ($8) — spicy yellowtail, spicy salmon and jalapeño — and the Hakata roll, made of soft shell crab, asparagus and avocado, topped with spicy tuna ($20). Hot plates are available, but not the focus here, ranging from teriyaki, fried rice and an noodle soups including ramen and udon, all starting at $16.

Dozo Dozo, 8225 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury, 516-340-6888, dozodozonyc.com. Open Monday-Thursday 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Friday 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Saturday 12:30-10:30 p.m., Sunday 1-9:30 p.m.

By Marie Elena Martinez

marieelena.martinez@newsday.com@mariesworlds

A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.