Review: Ephesus in Massapequa Park
A spicy vegetable salad, stuffed cabbage with grape leaves and a Ottoman dish made with chunks of lamb at Ephesus in Massapequa Park. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski
The ancient Turkish city of Ephesus was once an important trade and religious center for the country. But in Massapequa Park, Ephesus is synonymous with excellent Mediterranean food in a setting that feels like you are a guest in chef-owner Funda Duygun’s home. The warmth of the surroundings is only surpassed by the clarity of her cooking.
Start your meal with the acili ezme (a spicy vegetable salad) spread on warm, house-baked bread or any one of the glorious cold eggplant dishes including babagannus (eggplant with tahini) and soslu patlican, with onions, tomato, green pepper, and garlic, tossed with tomato sauce.
Hot highlights include the flaky sigara boregi, or "cigars," filled with feta and parsley or fried zucchini patties fragrant with dill, parsley, mint and oregano.
Don’t miss the pide bread, also known as Turkish pizza. Partial to the potato or the sausage varieties, each bite evokes the street sights and sounds of Istanbul.
Move onto the kebabs, all of which are terrific, but if you’re feeling super carnivorous, share a mixed grill plate, piled high with chicken shish, ground chicken adana, lamb chops and lamb patties.
Ephesus also excels in "kitchen" dishes such as savory stuffed cabbage, okra stew and the great hunkar begendi , which translates to "sultans’ delight," wherein grilled chunks of lamb rest on a smoky eggplant purée topped with tomato sauce. Finish with — what else — homemade baklava.
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A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.
