First bite: little/red in Southampton

The offspring of red/bar brasserie is little/red. The lowercase approach and the menu style must be hereditary.

This new addition to downtown Southampton is a cozy-unto-snug eatery, a 50-seater with handsome appointments and outdoor tables, too — a very Hamptons cafe approach. Enjoyably relaxed on a weekday night, it's likely to be a booming and crowded affair on the weekend. No reservations.

Executive chef Bob Abrams, who cooked earlier at the departed Oasis in Sag Harbor, offers a refreshing  mix of French-Italian-New American fare. Try the fluke crudo, with an orange-and-fennel salad and droplets of pesto; linguine with cockles; and the herb-roasted chicken. Strawberry shortcake, with a tarragon-spiked biscuit and whipped crème fraîche, is excellent.

little/red is owned by David Loewenberg and Kirk Basnight of red/bar in Southampton. Loewenberg also is the owner of The Beacon in Sag Harbor and co-owner of Fresno in East Hampton.

little/red, 76C Jobs Lane. near Agawam Park, Southampton; 631-283-3309.

Strawberry shortcake at little/red.