110 Bagel Market & Bistro: Melville shop shows attention to detail

Rolando and Michelle Adamovicz don't want to own just another bagel shop. At their 2-year-old 110 Bagel Market & Bistro, they attend to details large and small. The bagels ($11.40 a dozen) are made the old-fashioned way by Charlie Castaneda, who learned his trade in Brooklyn. Every bagel is hand rolled, kettle boiled and then baked on burlap-covered slats in an immense, rotating oven.

You'll find all the standard varieties -- sesame, poppy, garlic, whole wheat, everything, egg and more -- as well as Nutella (with a dose of the chocolate-hazelnut spread in the dough and drizzled on the finished bagel) and French toast. The French toast-flavored bagel (and it tastes uncannily like French toast) is also pressed into service for the shop's croque monsieur ($6.50); it is split, filled with Black Forest ham and Gruyere cheese and then topped with more cheese before being grilled.

To schmear? 110 Bagel starts with Philadelphia cream cheese to make a slew of flavors ($9.99 a pound) including "super lox" (smoked salmon and chives), jalapeño, maple-walnut, apple-cinnamon, strawberry and, in a stark departure from bagel-shop tradition, bacon-Cheddar. Tuna, whitefish and chicken salads ($10.99 to $13.99) are all made with Hellmann's mayonnaise. Mayo-less salads include quinoa, beet, chickpea, orzo and white bean.

The Adamoviczes concede that not everyone wants a bagel. Their menu also features eggs and omelets, pancakes, salads and panini whose fillings are also a cut above: the corned beef is Meyer Ranch, the roast beef is American wagyu, the smoked turkey is D'Artagnan.

110 Bagel Market & Bistro

903 Walt Whitman Rd., Melville

631-271-7108, bagelmarketbistro.com