A food lovers guide to Long Island

Baked clams: With scores of Italian restaurants across Long Island, clams oreganata are a menu staple here. Very few versions reach elite status, however. The baked clams oreganata at Matteo’s, an elegant Huntington Station trattoria, nail the ratio: dainty littleneck clams, ample butter and garlic, crisp, golden bread- crumbs and a vibrant lemon sauce to send the whole thing across home plate ($14 for six; $26 for a dozen). (Matteo’s Trattoria & Bar, 300 W. Jericho Tpke., Huntington Station; 631-421-6001, huntington.matteosristorante.com)

Soft-shell crabs: When the Atlantic blue crab, like other crustaceans, periodically sheds its shell to make way for a new, larger one, it’s called a soft-shell. Most Long Island fishmongers (Braun in Cutchogue, Cor-J in Hampton Bays, Claw’s in West Sayville, Jeff ’s in Huntington, Johns Farms in Plainview, Two Cousins in Freeport, Roslyn Seafood Gourmet and Hewlett Fish Market are all good bets) sell them already cleaned, so they’re easy to cook. In a large skillet over medium-high, heat a tablespoon each of oil and butter. Lightly dredge 4 big soft-shells in flour well-seasoned with salt and pepper, then place the crabs, top side down, in the pan. Once the top is bright orange, 2 to 5 minutes, flip and cook the bottom. That’s it.

Lobster: We tend to think of the king of crustaceans as a succulent summer splurge, but fall and winter are prime lobster-eating months. The meat is firmer and, well, meatier, with a deep oceanic tang. It tastes like cold blue water. This is a great time, then, to head to Jordan Lobster Farms, an Island Park landmark (since 1938) that combines a casual restaurant with a clam bar and seafood market. Hunker down with a lobster roll or steamed lobster (sizes range from 1 1⁄4 pounds to a whopping 10 pounds, subject to availability), or pick up some beauts for cooking at home—in a homey stew, for instance, or dinner party–worthy lobster Newburg. Jordan also does a terrific job of steaming lobsters for you: They’re never overcooked, and there’s no extra charge. Phone orders welcome. (Jordan Lobster Farms, 1 Pettit Pl., Island Park; 516-889-3314, jordanlobsterfarms.com)

Peconic Bay scallops: The small, delicate scallops from Peconic Bay are renowned for their almost candylike sweetness. From early November to the end of March, they’re available at most Long Island seafood markets, including Southold Fish Market, where big tables are set up in the middle of the store for the shuckers. In your kitchen, it’s hard to beat a quick sauté in a hot skillet with butter and a little lemon juice. They’ll be satiny on the tongue. (Southold Fish Market, 64755 NY-25, Southold; 631-765-3200)

Oysters: Nothing captures the North Fork’s sense of place more than the oysters at Little Creek Oyster Farm & Market in Greenport. The small building is one of the last vestiges of a legendary working waterfront, and although the menu is limited, it’s all you desire: up to a dozen different local oysters (which you can shuck yourself ... or not), bags of potato chips, a flourless New England–style clam chowder and good things to drink. (Little Creek Oyster Farm & Market, 37 Front St., Greenport; 631-477-6992, littlecreekoysters.com)

Ice cream sandwich: For five years, Frozen Sin’s sleek pink truck has dispensed handmade ice cream sandwiches at private events, festivals and farmers markets. But when the pandemic hit, owners-spouses Erica and Stephanie Belk became “contactless ice cream sandwich fairies.” Erica stays home and makes the ice cream and wafers; Stephanie packs the goods (such as four sandwich “triangles” for $24) in dry ice and delivers them all over Long Island. Ice cream flavors include vanilla-blueberry cobbler, mint made with fresh mint leaves, chocolate studded with malt balls. Most sandwiches are made with brownie or snickerdoodle-cookie wafers; the popular cookie-dough sandwich features vanilla sandwiched between two frozen slabs of actual (eggless) cookie dough. (Check Facebook and Instagram for the latest menu; $20 delivery minimum; $7 delivery charge). (Frozen Sin;  516-353-8713, frozensintruck.com)

Doughnuts: Grindstone, a tiny doughnut shop a block from the waterfront in Sag Harbor, is a dangerous place. The classic glazed doughnut ($3.50), made, like every other doughnut here, from a brioche dough, is pretty much perfect. But there are also churro doughnuts ... Nutella-S’mores doughnuts ... occasional one-offs such as banana-pancake doughnuts. Heck, just get a dozen. (Grindstone Coffee & Doughnuts, 7A Main St., Sag Harbor; 631-808-3370, grindstonedonuts.com)

Chocolate Babka: Light yet rich, chocolaty but with more than a hint of cinnamon coming through, the babka ($14.99) at Noir Bakery & Cafe is also a world traveler. The Sinai family, originally from Israel, imports the filled and braided dough from the old country, proofs and bakes it at their small shop in Great Neck. Bonus: It’s vegan and kosher. (Noir Bakery & Cafe, 25 Cutter Mill Rd., Great Neck; 516-773-0973)

Fruit Pie: From its establishment by Peter Kerber in 1941, Kerber’s was Huntington’s longtime go-to spot for fresh poultry. When Nick Voulgaris III reopened it in 2013, the focus shifted to prepared foods and baked goods, among which the pies reign supreme. Among the smashing varieties are peach, strawberry-rhubarb and the inevitable Kerberry, with strawberries, blue- berries, raspberries and a crumb topping. (Kerber’s Farm, 309 W. Pulaski Rd., Huntington; 631-423-4400, kerbersfarm.com)

Vanilla pecan danish: Follow the crowds to Northport’s Copenhagen Bakery and its legendary-or-if-it-isn’t-it-should-be buttery specialty ($2.95), a seemingly endless spiral road of nuts, syrup and cinnamon, with just enough glaze here and there to send your glucose numbers into the stratosphere. (Copenhagen Bakery & Cafe, 75 Woodbine Ave., Northport; 631-754-3256, copenhagenbakery.net)

Gelato: Gelato, smoother and leaner than ice cream, is one of Italy’s glories. At ViAle Gelateria in Lynbrook, owner Anna Franchi, who is from Ferrara, offers sensational gelati, from hazelnut and pistachio to stracciatella and lavender (from $3.20). (Viale Gelateria, 424 Sunrise Hwy., Lynbrook; 516-442-0094)

Crumb cake: Hahn’s has made peerless crumb cake, with addictive, extra-large, handmade crumbs, for 35 years. The classic crumb cake is $12 for a sheet of 12; $7 for 6. While you’re at it, pick up a 3-pound snacking bucket of those crumbs for $16; a can for $6. (Hahn's Old Fashioned Cake Co., 75 Allen Blvd., Farmingdale; 631-249-3456, crumbcake.net)

Baklava: Ephesus in Massapequa Park is a destination for pistachio, walnut and custard baklavas, glistening from honey syrup. Four per order, which is fine, but only if you’re dining alone. From $6.50. (Ephesus Mediterranean & Turkish Cuisine, 514 Park Blvd., Massapequa Park; 516-543-4258, ephesusmedcuisine.com)

Chocolates: The resolutely old-school Schwartz Candies in Carle Place has no use for single-origin chocolate or whacked-out flavor combinations. Its large selection of classic chocolate confections includes a few that are practically extinct, such as parlays, which have nougat centers wrapped in caramel and studded with pecans, and molasses sponge, nubbins of honeycombed bittersweetness. Both candies come enrobed in either milk or dark chocolate and are $29.50 a pound. (Schwartz Candies, 169 Voice Rd., Carle Place; 800-522-2462, schwartzcandies.com)

Strudel: Turning a lump of dough into a sheet that is almost as thin as phyllo, yet a bit more substantial, is both art and craft. It’s represented beautifully in Junda’s strudels (starting at $20). (Junda's Pastry Crust & Crumbs, 1612 Main Rd., Jamesport; 631-722-4999)

Jam: Fruit jams should taste deep, rich and not too sweet. They should also profoundly taste of the fruit, not generically fruity. And Briermere nails it. The grape jam is one stellar example: It has soulfulness, a winey depth, and you will want to eat it on everything. Other avors to savor: beach plum, strawberry- rhubarb, blackberry, quince ($8/12 oz). (Briermere Farms, 4414 Sound Ave., Riverhead; 631-722-3931, briermere.com)

Panettone: The rich, sweet Christmas bread called panettone, buttery and studded with citron and raisins, is ubiquitous and exotic, all at the same time. Typically, it’s imported from Italy in brightly colored boxes, but at Marzullo, it’s made in-house, starting in early December, for around $25. Panettone is made from a very moist dough, so a loaf stays fresh for a long time. If you are lucky enough to have any leftovers, they make wonderful French toast. (Marzullo Bakery & Cafe, 1586 Hillside Ave., New Hyde Park, 516-352-2859)

Cookies: Compared to the sprinkled, spangled, drizzled cookies that have taken over bakery cases and social media, Heidi Riegler’s efforts are distinctly plain. And the plainest among them are her biggest seller: She calls them “chocolate kisses” because the literal translation of “sandbusserln” is “sandy kisses.” Chocolate, butter and hazelnuts (no flour) conspire to make a tender, melting bite. An 8-ounce box (24 cookies) is $28 on Riegler’s website or, on Saturdays, at her storefront. (Vienna Cookie Company, 782 Merrick Rd., Baldwin; 516-665-1710, viennacookiecompany.com)

Ice cream: For more than three decades, Stu Feldschuh has been Long Island’s master of ice cream in flavors classic and whimsical; earlier this year, a Travel + Leisure magazine poll cited his Snow Flake Ice Cream Shoppe in Riverhead as New York State’s best. There are peerless sundaes in summer made with local fruit, and malteds, shakes, cones, soft-serve, ice cream sandwiches and Brown Bonnets that are better than any you remember from childhood. (Snowflake Ice Cream Shoppe, 1148 Main St., Riverhead; 631-727-4394, snowflakeicecream.com)

Hard seltzer: If you can get your hands on it (it sells out quickly), the hard seltzer from Montauk Brewing Co. is a score, a fruity, bubbly sipper that far eclipses White Claw. At 4.5 percent alcohol, this brewed drink ($14/6-pack; $25.99/12-pack) generates a gentle buzz—and in flavors such as black cherry and raspberry lime, it’s basically summer in a can. (Available at beer retailers Island-wide and websites such as FreshDirect and montaukbrewingco.com)

Rosé Cider: Wöffer Estate’s sweet-tart rosé cider, No. 139, charms with its picnic-ready 12-ounce glass bottles sized just right for sharing with a partner. New this summer: LoRo, a low-alcohol, reduced-calorie version. $13-$16 for a four-pack at grocers and Wölffer Estate Vineyard. (Wölffer Estate Vineyard,139 Sagg Rd., Sagaponack; 631-537-5106, wolffer.com)

Rocket Fuel: Fire Island’s signature cocktail can be found at any number of watering holes on that sliver of sand, but the Rocket Fuel at CJ’s in Ocean Beach is in a class by itself, taking you from zero to intergalactic inebriation within sips. Credit (or blame) the Bacardi 151 and Amaretto, which provide a mighty boost to pineapple juice and cream of coconut, turning Dr. Pina Colada into Mr. Hyde, and a trip to the beach into the most fun you’ll never remember. (CJ’s Restaurant & Bar, 479 Bay Walk, Ocean Beach, Fire Island; 631-583-9890, cjsfireisland.com)

Sparkling wine: Sparkling Pointe is Long Island’s bubbliest winery. Gilles Martin, whose resume includes five years at Roederer Estate, the Anderson Valley o spring of Champagne Louis Roederer, makes only the fizzy and the effervescent at Sparkling Pointe. Try his crisp, citrusy 2016 Brut ($30); dry, pretty-in-pink 2016 Topaz Imperial Brut Rosé ($41); gilded and graceful 2010 Brut Seduction ($70); and the casual Cuvée Carnaval trio ($30 to $36). (Sparkling Pointe, 39750 County Rd. 48, Southold; 631-765-0200, sparklingpointe.com)

Tea: To stroll through Melissa Wawrzonek’s store is to face a number of fascinating, caffeine- propelled decisions—loose-leaf or bag, high-grade ceremonial matcha or long-fermented pu’er, chamomile or valerian root. And that’s because the Clipper Ship Tea Co. serves serious steepers near and far, from Montauk and Freeport, Queens and Manhattan, none of whom thinks twice about trekking to Huntington every couple of months for their blend of choice. There are 215 options available at any one time in the nine-year-old store, and while business online is Lipton brisk, only a store visit will give you a proper sense of Wawrzonek’s singular achievement. Clipper Ship also boasts a very attentive staff, each of whom stands ready to offer serious consultation and/or iced and hot versions of every blend. Oh, and don’t forget Wawrzonek herself, always available for advice, and usually found strolling the store. (Clipper Ship Tea Co., 297 Main St., Huntington; 631-651-2764, clippershipteaco.com)

Mocktails: Teetotalers no longer have to endure rote concoctions of seltzer and citrus, at least not at The Linwood Restaurant & Cocktails in Bay Shore, where the “86 the ABV” menu shows how artful booze-free cocktails can be. Case in point, the Mock Madame: fennel-infused apple cider syrup, fresh lemon juice, club soda, ginger beer and cinnamon. The drink is garnished with a spice-dusted apple slice and fennel fronds. (The Linwood Restaurant & Cocktails, 150 E. Main St., Bay Shore; 631-665-1256, thelinwoodbayshore.com)

Bubble tea: Sure, it’s part of a national chain, but you can’t beat the kaleidoscopic variety of boba (starting at $4.89) by Bambu in Stony Brook. Fans are presented with a dizzying number of ingredients standard and exotic, from jackfruit to pandan jelly, basil seeds to mung beans. (Bambu, 2350 Nesconset Hwy., Stony Brook; 631-364-9360, drinkbambu.com)

Beer brewing: The vast majority of craft brewers on Long Island started out brewing in their garages with this no-frills kit ($82.95), and you can do the same. Ingredient boxes containing hops, grains and yeasts for styles such as Oktoberfest and Pilsner are sold separately. The stainless-steel Grizzly Flip growler (64 oz/$27.95) keeps home brew under pressure. (Kedco, 564 Smith St., Farmingdale; 631-454-7800, kedcowinestoragesystems.com)

Apple cider: Cidermaking at Jericho Cider Mill goes back to 1820. Today, the un-refined, unfermented or “sweet” cider, fresh-tasting and intensely apple-y, is sold cold by the gallon, half-gallon and so on, as well as hot and spicy in a go cup. Growlers of excellent hard cider—which gains alcohol through fermentation and can be as complex as craft beer—are available farther east at the Woodside Orchards tasting room in Aquebogue. (Jericho Cider Mill, 213 Route 106, Jericho; 516-433-3360, jerichocider.com and Woodside Orchards, 729 Route 25, Aquebogue; 631-722-5770, woodsideorchards.com)

Bialys: Typically adorned with nothing more than a sprinkling of chopped onion and designed to be split and toasted, bialys are like English mu ns that speak Yiddish. Bialys by Bell, the nation’s largest bialy factory, was founded more than 70 years ago by Marty Bell in Brooklyn; today, the business, now in Oceanside, is in the hands of Marty’s grandson, Jared. Bell bialys are sold at supermarkets and many bagel shops, but for the absolute freshest bialys, visit the factory, where a dozen costs a mere $6. (Bialys By Bell, 3333 Royal Ave., Oceanside; 718-272-2780, bialy.com) 

Bagels: Long Island teems with inventive bagels “enhanced” by chocolate chips, French toast flavoring or rainbow-hued dyes. And bagel bloat has rendered many of these soft spheres too fat to stick a finger through. Thank God for Fairway’s mini-bagel (69¢), with a burnished crust that announces itself before your teeth sink into the toothsome, slightly malty interior. The craziest variety is everything. (Fairway, 1258 Corporate Dr., Westbury and 50 Manetto Hill Rd., Plainview; fairwaymarket.com)

Baguette: “If you’re sitting down to eat our baguette,” said Raymond Smith, “I want that crust to shatter all over your shirt.” Smith and Michael Blackburn are partners in Long Beach’s old-school-new-wave bakery, Blacksmith’s Breads, part of a nationwide bread movement that combines centuries-old baking methods with a contemporary focus on local and organic grains. For their magic wand (the literal translation of “baguette”), they have tinkered with French tradition. The dough, stark white in its country of origin, contains more whole wheat and stone-ground flour for a golden crumb. And, instead of the classic one-day process, Blacksmith’s baguette ($4) uses a portion of “old dough” and gets a three-day ferment for a round, creamy flavor and an interior crumb full of holes for cradling jam, olive oil or butter. (Blacksmith's Breads, 870 W. Beech St., Long Beach; 516-632-8738, blacksmithsbreads.com)

Focaccia: Focaccia is eaten all over Italy, but it's an article of faith in Puglia, where brothers Flavio and Lino De Vivo were born and learned to cook. At +39 Italian Eatery, their new spot in Great Neck, the puffy, tender flatbread is baked into individual rounds ($5) and topped simply with salt, lots of black pepper, oregano and extra-virgin olive oil. Or, quartered tomatoes are pushed into the dough before baking for a jucier treat. (+39 Italian Eatery, 16 Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck; 516-918-9200, 39eatery.com)

Sliders: Long Island is prime slider territory, but at That No Good Burger Joint, the traditional-blend patties are always luxe, and you can choose any of the 10 signature burgers as sliders for $9.95. The Pops burger (with bacon, sautéed onions and melted American cheese) and the house-made vegan bean burger are two standouts. (That No Good Burger Joint, 930 Atlantic Ave., Baldwin; 516-442-5434, nogoodburgerjointny.com)

 Dry-aged steaks: If you’ve decided that this is the summer to make your house a steakhouse, beat a path to Babylon Village Meat Market. Lenny Popp and his team bring in primal cuts of beef and dry-age them in the meat locker, as they have done for 37 years. Great selection of prime, Wagyu and grass-fed beef here, as well as heritage-breed pork, Green Circle chickens (from storied producer D’Artagnan), and house-made sausages. (Babylon Village Meat Market, 85 Deer Park Ave., Babylon; 631-669-0612, babylonvillagemeatmarket.com)

Hot dogs: What makes a great hot dog is slightly ineffable, but the one at Chiddy’s Cheesesteaks has the x-factor: A glossy, griddled exterior, a juicy snap on the first bite and a deeply beefy flavor with hints of pepper. This $3.95 dog comes on a soft, standard-issue bun, but somehow it exceeds city-street Sabrett’s for allure. (That’s saying a lot for a cheesesteak place). (Chiddy’s Cheesesteaks, 191 Main St., Farmingdale; 516-927-8770 and 2189 Jericho Tpke., Commack; 631-888-3262, chiddyscheesesteaks.com)

Pastrami: OK, we know we’re wading into dangerous waters here, but we love Pastrami King’s eponymous effort—paper-thin shards of perfectly spiced pinkness, especially when (barely) contained in an overstuffed sandwich ($13.95). (Pastrami King, 196 Merrick Rd., Merrick; 516-377-4300, pastramiking.com)

Turkey: For those unable to special-order a Thanksgiving bird ($4.99/lb) from this beloved Huntington farm—only a few hundred go on sale—we offer a few words of consolation: farm-raised chickens. (Makinajian Poultry Farm, 276 Cuba Hill Rd., Huntington; 631-368-9320)

Rotisserie duck: When you crave roast duck, you generally have two choices: You can go eat Peking duck at a Chinese restaurant (see page 68), or you can roast a duck at home, then clean the oven and possibly repaint the kitchen afterward. A third option is to phone in and order for one or two of Miloski’s famous rotisserie ducks, then get in the car and go for a ride in the country. This duck ($25.50) is one of the world’s great convenience foods, and practically begs you to invite people over for dinner. With all that richness, you don’t need much more—perhaps roasted butternut squash (page 22) or polenta, and a big green salad. If there are any leftovers, eat them with arugula or watercress on sourdough toast. (Miloski's Poultry Farm, 4418 Middle Country Rd., Calverton; 631-727-0239, miloskispoultryfarm.com; cash only)

Italian sausage: Like many Italian butchers, Andrea Ceriello makes his own fresh sausages in the shop. But dried sausages are produced at Licini Bros., his traditional salsicceria in Union City, New Jersey. Licini’s sweet sopressata is nothing more than pork, salt and pepper. For hot sopressata, the mixture is spiced with cayenne, paprika and few hot pepper flakes. Suave finocchiona is brightened with ground fennel seed. Cacciatorini are aptly named: “Little hunters” refers to their origin as meaty snacks small enough to fit in a hunter’s pocket. (Ceriello Fine Foods, 541 Willis Ave., Williston Park; 516-747-0277, ceriellofinefoods.com)

Bacon: Frozen in time in the best possible way, the Forest Pork Store has long been the Island’s go-to for all things German—knockwurst, bratwurst, sauerbraten and more—and the smoked hocks there are perhaps definitive. But the Huntington shop’s nest achievement may well be its bacon ($9.99/1 lb). The not-too-thin, not-too-thick strips fry up to crisp amber planks of heaven. (Forest Pork Store, 380 E. Jericho Tpke., Huntington, 631-423-2574, forestporkstore.com)

Guacamole at home: For about 3 1/2 cups guacamole, cut 4 ripe Hass avocados in half lengthwise, then remove the pits. Scoop the flesh into a bowl and roughly mash with a fork (keep it chunky). There’s a lot of debate as to what, beyond avocado, belongs in guacamole but go easy on the additions; you don’t need anything more than salt, a little chopped white onion, chopped ripe tomato (drained of excess juice), chopped cilantro and a squeeze of lime. Spice it up with a little minced jalapeño or serrano or a couple of shakes of hot sauce.

Long Island Corn: Harvested when the ears are tightly jacketed in green leaves and the kernels are plump with milky-looking juice, this Long Island treasure is piled high at roadside farm stands. Shopping tips: Do not strip the husks to inspect the ears, then toss rejects back on the pile. That results in ruined, unsellable corn, for once the kernels are exposed to the air, they begin to dry out and toughen. The way you can tell if kernels have filled out the whole cob is to simply feel around the top of the ear through the husk. The shank (stem) end should also look recently cut, the husks should be a vivid green and slightly moist, and the silk at the top should be a bit tacky to the touch. (Available at a farm stand near you)

North Fork Potato Chips: Produced by Cutchogue potato farmers Martin and Carol Sidor (Martin’s family started farming potatoes on the North Fork in 1910), these chips are cut thick and kettle-cooked in sunflower oil. Delicious alongside a BLT or lobster roll, they also make a terrific small vehicle for dips and embellishments. Top with crème fraîche and minced chives, for example, or sour cream and a sliver of smoked bluefish or salmon. Now in seven flavors, including barbecue and rosemary and garlic. (Available at supermarkets, specialty foods shops, some farm stands and northforkchips.com; straight case, $30)

Watermelon salad: Meta Osteria & Barra is a stylish, warm place where traditional Italian and Italian-American favorites compete. But there are some welcome, contemporary touches, too, including a refreshing watermelon salad emboldened by Gorgonzola, walnuts and capicola—spiced, cured pork shoulder that’s wonderful with the intoxicating sweetness of the melon. (Meta Osteria & Barra, 2752 Oceanside Rd., Oceanside; 516-764-3218, metaliny.com)

French fries: You might not think to order French fries at Toku, the granddaddy of Asian fusion restaurants on Long Island, but you should know that the signature fries, thick-cut and served with spicy mayo, are absolutely stellar and terrific with braised pork belly or charred beef fillet with mushroom ragout. (Toku, 2014 Northern Blvd., Manhasset; 516-627-TOKU, pollrestaurants.com)

Kimchi: Any Korean-owned market will showcase kimchi; Hmart’s enormous Jericho store devotes a 20-foot-long, tiered refrigerated case to it. To most Americans, kimchi calls to mind a side dish of pickled cabbage that has been fermented into incendiary pungency, but here’s the place to experiment with kimchi made with diced white radish, or stubby little “ponytail” radishes, radish leaves, cucumbers, scallions and more. As for cabbage, sizes range from 4-ounce cans to 7-pound buckets. (H Mart, 336 N. Broadway, Jericho; 516-513-5050, hmart.com)

Winter greens: Sang Lee Farms, originally based in Melville, began supplying New York City’s Chinatown with Asian produce after World War II. Today, the farm, now in Peconic, also offers other seasonal, certified organic vegetables, including winter greens such as cavolo nero kale, easily recognized by its crinkled dark-green leaves. Its flavor is rich, alluring and almost meaty. Sang Lee’s CSA program has drop-offs in Babylon, Manhasset, Merrick, Northport, Riverhead, Sayville, Smithtown, Southampton and Westhampton Beach; see the farm’s website for details. (Sang Lee Farms, 25180 Country Rd. 48, Peconic; 631-734-7001, sangleefarms.com)

Empanadas: Before she opened her friendly little takeout shop in 2011, Vicky Ramos was making empanadas for friends and family, even bringing trays of them to hungry factory workers. Her mother is from Colombia and, at first, the fried turnovers hewed to a traditional Colombian recipe: beef and potato or chicken and potato. But then Ramos began fiddling, and today she sells more than 20 varieties (from $1.25), including Hawaiiana empanadas stuffed with ham, pineapple and cheese, and macarrones con queso, stuffed with mac ’n’ cheese. (Vicky's Casa del Sabor, 771 N. Wellwood Ave., Lindenhurst; 631-225-5040, vickyscasadelsabor.com)

Clam Pie: Clam pie is a singular treat on the East End, specifically at Stuart’s Seafood Market, run by Bruce Sasso and Charlotte Klein Sasso. For many years, Charlotte has been making these savory beauties, full of shellfish, with cream, butter, potatoes, onion and herbs under a flaky, flavorful crust. A 9-inch pie is $30; a 6-inch pie is $15. (Stuart's Seafood Market, 41 Oak Lane, Amagansett; 631-267-6700, stuartsseafood.com)

Feta: You can find Bulgarian and French feta at New Bakaliko, but the emphasis is on feta from Greece, the country where it was born. (New Bakaliko, 115 Broadway, Hicksville; 516-932-8988)

Mozzarella: Mr. Sausage’s mozzarella balls are peerless: gleaming ivory, ostrich egg–sized and soul-stirring ($10.99/lb). They make it twice a day with great skill and finesse. (Mr. Sausage, 3 Union Pl., Huntington; 631-271-3836, mrsausagefinefoods.com)

Backyard smoker: If you are new to outdoor cooking and craving meat with the tenderness and smoky whomp that results from cooking it long and slow, you may want to invest in a backyard smoker. There are a number of high-end options available, but the sturdy bullet-style Weber Smokey Mountain Cooker gets the job done nicely; it comes in three sizes, from 14 inches to 22 inches; the 18-inch model, which retails for $329, is large enough for three slabs of meaty ribs or two bone-in pork shoulders. You’ll be in hog heaven. (Available at hardware stores, big-box stores and weber.com)

Local honey: The raw clover-blossom honey from 18-year-old Hamptons Honey Co. ($11/16-oz jar) has a luscious, blendable texture and bright, almost tangerine-like flavor. Because it’s harvested in early summer, it’s also fresh right now. (The Hamptons Honey Co.; 888-365-2325, hamptonshoney.com)

Greek olive oils: At the 10-month-old Herb & Olive in Manhasset, the dominant visual is a black-and-white ren- dering of a massive olive tree that presides over the dining room. Olive oil is at the heart of the restaurant’s menu, and it assumes center stage at the market as well. Owner Julia Petropoulas is proud of her all-Greek lineup, and the stars are the extra-virgin organic Ladolea oils produced in Corinth. The subtleties of these “finishing” oils will be lost if you cook with them; instead, use them to dress salads or drizzle over grilled meats, a platter of tomatoes, roasted vegetables, toasted rustic bread—really, there’s very little that can’t be improved upon by a benediction of good olive oil. Each of the three varieties is from a di erent olive: the Patrinia olive produces a delicate oil; the Koroneiki, bolder and fruitier; the Megaritiki, even more intense. All are available in metal tins or refillable ceramic containers inspired by ancient Corinthian pots. (Herb & Olive, 172 Plandome Rd., Manhasset; 516-439-5421, herbandolive.com)

Water bottle: With limited access to indoor spaces this summer, many of us are spending more time tooling around in our cars. What’s worse than climbing back into a 100-degree vehicle? Unwittingly taking a gulp of now-warm water from the bottle you left in the cup holder, that’s what. To the rescue: this insulated 18-ounce travel bottle from Contigo, which will keep liquids cold for up to 14 hours, even in the front seat of your sun-stroked car. (Available at outdoors stores, big box stores and online sources including gocontigo.com)

Hardwood lump charcoal: Those familiar pillow-shaped charcoal briquettes may have decades of backyard tradition behind them, but nothing beats hardwood lump, which is charcoal in its purest form: wood burned down in the absence of oxy- gen until it becomes chunks of char- coal. Lump hardwood lights faster, burns hotter and longer, contains no additives, doesn’t throw o any chemical residue and gives whatever you’re grilling a deliciously smoky savor. One brand that’s made in the United States is Cowboy Charcoal, which comes in an 8.8-pound bag (around $9) or a 20-pounder ($29.99). (Available at hardware stores and many big-box stores and supermarkets).

Hot dog relish: Hot dogs, grilled until the skin is crisp and sizzling and the meat inside is a veritable juice bomb, are an iconic food of summer—and they are reason alone to have the sweet and hot pepper relishes from Country View Farm Stand in the fridge. Tangy, colorful and fresh- tasting, they are also delicious with—well pretty much everything, including flank steak and seared fish. (Country View Farm Stand, 57995 Main Rd., Southold and 2 Main Rd., Peconic; 631-903-1335)

Garam Masala: This classic spice blend of northern India, which includes cinnamon, cloves, black pepper and cardamom, gives all sorts of everyday meals a boost. Stir into broccoli soup, sprinkle onto roasted cauliflower, work into ground beef for burgers or rub onto chicken breasts. We like Swad brand ($2.49/7 oz), and because Patel has a high turnover, it’s always ultrafresh. (Patel Brothers, 415 S. Broadway, Hicksville; 516-681-0091, patelbros.com)

Knife sharpening: In their Centereach shop, father-and- son team Richard DeVito (senior and junior) can take your blades from dull to razor-edged in five minutes flat. (We Make It Sharp, 1800 Middle Country Rd., Centereach; 631-766-2111, we-make-it-sharp.business.site)

Reusable tote bags: When German discount Lidl completes its takeover of 24 Best Markets, what we’ll miss most are the sturdy totes (99¢) with their bold imagery, at bases and shoulder straps as well as handles. (For locations, see bestmarket.com)