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Frank's Steaks
The motto here is "We ain't just steaks." But that beef still is the main reason to eat at Frank's.
This is an enjoyable restaurant for well-prepared, unadorned American food, emphasis on juicy beef. The setting matches the simplicity of the menu. And the service is attentive and accommodating.
Begin with a shrimp cocktail or the baked littlenecks. The Greek salad and the Caesar are all right, too.
The crabcake platter and the Cobb salad with grilled chicken are pleasant enough, as are the tricolor salad and the hamburger.
But on to the main events. Best are the porterhouse steak for two, T-bone for one, the bone-in strip steak and the Romanian skirt steak. The prime rib also is fine. Likewise, the grilled loin veal chop spiked with thyme, and the calf's liver with sauteed onions and bacon.
The seafood selections are satisfactory, and include blackened tuna, baked salmon and broiled shrimp or pecan-crusted sole.
Sample the creamed spinach and the fried potatoes with any of these choices.
Cheesecake is the obligatory finale, if you have room.
Peter M. Gianotti