Open in Stony Brook: Green Tea Restaurant

Chinese cuisine looks to be in the midst of a Long Island renaissance: Most recently, Moonstone debuted in Great Neck and, before that, Red Tiger Dumpling House turned up in Stony Brook. Now, also in Stony Brook, along comes Green Tea Restaurant (subtitled Remember the Taste of China), which takes over the vacated digs of Centara Thai Cuisine, just steps away from Stony Brook University.

In charge of the kitchen is chef Simon Ou, who says his credentials include  executive chef at the Crowne Plaza in Guangzhou, China. Ou’s repertoire draws largely on the fare of Canton and Hong Kong and includes such dishes as a Hong Kong-style wonton noodle soup ($7.99), beef and bitter melon in black bean sauce ($8.99 lunch; $18.99 dinner), walnut shrimp with mayonnaise ($7.99 lunch; $15.99 dinner) and pan-fried rice cake with shredded pork ($12.99).

Green Tea Restaurant is at 1015 Rte. 25A, Stony Brook, 631-689-1111, greentea-restaurant.com.