Hana review: Port Washington Japanese restaurant is Long Island's new sushi destination

Port Washington is your next stop.

Opposite the railroad station, at an address that has seen more turnovers than a bad bullpen, Hana has arrived from New York City. It opens as one of the best sushi restaurants on Long Island.

Bright, streamlined, roomy and full of blond wood and clean lines beyond its bamboo facade, the new dining room represents a dramatic overhaul from the designs of earlier occupants, among them Crave, Haven Grill and Cafe Capriccio.Everything is new.

That goes for the establishment's ambition, too. The sushi chefs are meticulous, using splashily fresh seafood from Tokyo's Tsukiji Market as well as the New Fulton Fish Market. In addition to uncooked fish, Hana excels with cooked appetizers and main courses.

The chef's choice of dishes, or omakase, is the most luxurious and inviting way to enjoy Hana. You'll receive a multi-course meal highlighted by what the markets offer. It could be lush fatty tuna, medium-fatty tuna, sweet shrimp, lustrous live scallop, baby yellowtail, geoduck clam, sea urchin, roe, more.

But you also may select chirashi, or scattered sushi, on rice; assortments focused on tuna or salmon; and more familiar raw fish presentations. Hana sends out a tasty spicy tuna roll, too. Openers such as yellowtail jalapeño and refreshing seaweed salad are stand outs. The "blue skin" horse mackerel, Spanish mackerel and Japanese mackerel glisten, as do white fish such as Japanese red snapper, amber jack and striped bass.

From the kitchen repertoire, try an especially fine version of the now-common miso-braised black cod, finished with a ginger-soy reduction; ramen soup with either vegetables, beef, chicken or seafood; and savory pork buns that visually will remind you of the puffy pancakes for Beijing duck, these brushed with just-enough Sriracha and teriyaki sauce.

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And Hana gets your attention with expensive and velvety Wagyu A5 rib-eye and strip loin, the highest grade of the intricately marbled, ultra-rich beef. Kobe beef might appear in the omakase.

Handsomely arranged, crisp-skinned duck with mushrooms, potatoes and scallion; and fried, whole sea bass with teriyaki, mushrooms, and, yes, a balsamic reduction compete with roasted lobster with garlic butter and shellfish risotto.

Ice cream materializes gratis as the house dessert.

There are now at least four Japanese restaurants near the train station. All aboard this one.