Hermanas Kitchen and Cocktails opens in Lindenhurst

It's been said, somewhere by someone, that there's the family you're born into and the family you choose. While Sara Pesserillo, Lauren Nash and Kristen Lapof aren't biologically related, per se, they've built enough kinship over the years that the Spanish word for sisters, hermanas, seemed to fit their new Lindenhurst restaurant.

The friends-turned-business partners opened Hermanas Kitchen and Cocktails last week, and it's a fetching, light-filled spot of layered neutrals and ornate tile, 40 seats and festive bathrooms, as well as dishes (and mixed drinks) that draw their cues across Mexico, the Caribbean and Latin America.

Hermanas took over a year to build out, said Lapof, but its roots go back further to when she, Pesserillo and Nash met as bartenders at Mulcahy’s (both in Wantagh and Centereach) 15 years ago before heading off as servers, bartenders and managers elsewhere in the industry. "We kind of went our separate ways with day jobs, but stayed friends," wrote Pesserillo in an email a few months ago.

In 2010, they reconvened at The Good Life in Massapequa and the idea for their own place eventually percolated. When a space became available in Lindenhurst in fall 2018, they decided to join the food renaissance in the village where Nash grew up. The three friends did much of the decoration themselves, gilding mirrors and tiling walls, as well as plotted and replotted an eclectic menu; it's executed by chef Edwin Corado, and will change seasonally.

Hermanas' opening roster is succinct — tostones with chipotle aioli segues to small plates such as empanadas or fried Oaxacan cheese with sofrito marinara. Tacos (two or three per order) come three ways: filled with fried avocado, shrimp or pernil, aka marinated, slow-roasted pork shoulder that's served with radishes, cilantro and salsa verde. Pernil is also offered as one of three larger plates; prices start at $5 (for tostones) and top out at $18, for sirloin carne asada with chimichurri.

The notable sprinkling of vegetarian-friendly dishes, such as a hearts of palm ceviche with corn chips, is deliberate. "We all love vegetables, and I eat mostly vegan and vegetarian, so it was important to me that we had non-meat dishes," Pesserillo said.

Behind the bar are four taps, one with a grapefruit-habanero mead from WA Meadwerks, also in Lindenhurst, that the partners collaborated on. The canned beer list travels from Tecate to dry-hopped sour and hard cider, and cocktails highlight a healthy quotient of rum and agave-based spirits, such as the blend of tequila, agave syrup, beets and lime called Schrute Farms (cue the theme from "The Office"?)

In coming weeks, sandwiches will be added ("We're being picky about who we're going to source our bread from," said Lapof) as well as a burger, a few chicken dishes and other plates; the spirits selection will grow, too,

For now, Hermanas Kitchen & Cocktails opens for dinner at 5 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday, with Sunday brunch being added soon.

Hermanas Kitchen and Cocktails, 136 S. Wellwood Ave., Lindenhurst. 631-991-8999. hermanaslindy.com