Indian restaurant Jazeera opens in Hicksville
Dum ka murgh, a slow-cooked chicken dish at Jazeera, a new Hicksville restaurant specializing in Hyderabadi cuisine. Credit: Newsday/Scott Vogel
Dum ka murgh, qubani ka meetha, haleem — if these words mean nothing to you, I can’t say I blame you. Blessed though Long Island is with fine restaurants celebrating several of India’s food-fascinating regions, few are dedicated to one of the most food-fascinating of all — Hyderabad. And while that fact alone makes the arrival of Jazeera a noteworthy event, it’s the eatery’s mastery of the above dishes and more that makes this new Hicksville spot one to watch.
If marinated chicken slow-cooked in a nutty, yogurty slurry augmented with multiple aromatics and a pumpkin seed or two seems like nothing special, fault my description of dum ka murgh and not Jazeera’s version of it ($15.99). While the meat is juicy and perfectly tender, the gravy in which it arrives is so heavenly, you’ll find yourself ordering naan after naan (in various types, $2-$3.49) to mop it up, and then still more naan for a clean up on aisle haleem, a wheat-rich stew here served with lamb ($21.99).
The combination of mildly spiced rice and a straightforward presentation combine to make the mutton biryani ($19.99), yet another regional specialty, a less adventurous dish but one that’s perfect for the sheepish in your party. And there are others like it — the chicken tikka ($15) and a kebab roll of minced chicken ($4.99).
But don’t leave without sampling one of the desserts, both of which are unique and Hyderabad-specific. I will have to go back for the bread pudding known as double ka meetha ($7.50) but am keen to do so and, well, doubly intrigued after sampling Jazeera’s qubani ka meetha ($9), in which dried apricots are stewed, making for a sweet and tarty compote that is perfectly balanced with drizzles of cream. Yum.
Jazeera is at 37 W. John St. in Hicksville, 631-229-3646, jazeerahicksville.com. Opening hours are Tuesday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to midnight, and Monday from 12:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Newsday writer and restaurant critic Scott Vogel aims for a refreshing, gimlet-eyed take on the Long Island food scene, often while drinking a refreshing gimlet.
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