Jean Marie, Great Neck: A bistro, not a bakery

Jean Marie Patisserie & Bistro has dropped its bakery component and is now a restaurant only. That's a big switch for chef-owner John Muscarello, who spent years building a reputation as one of Long Island’s foremost pâtissiers.

“I had to define myself,” Muscarello said. “As much as my passion was with pastry, it just wasn’t selling. Last week, I took the cases out.“ But, Muscarello added, he will still be making all the restaurant's desserts.

On his dinner menu is a seafood-filled vol-au-vent pastry ($12), a blackened chicken “Bourbon Street” panino ($10), a burger ($10) and a double cut pork chop ($18). A three-course twilight menu, at $26.95, is offered Tuesday to Thursday from 5 to 9 p.m. as well as Friday and Saturday from 5 to 7 p.m. Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., features such dishes as French toast ($12), a “bagel frittata — an original invention featuring an omelet grill-pressed between two slices of bagel ($8-$9)  — plus a variety of crepes ($10-$11).

Muscarello said he will eventually change the restaurant’s name to Jean Marie Bistro & Cafe. It’s located at 66 Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck, 516-304-5439.