Jonathan's in Huntington: Reliable, indoors and out

On this dreary day, Jonathan's Ristorante in Huntington brightens things up.

There's a lot of competition downtown and Jonathan's has contributed to it for many years. It's the kind of spot that could turn very picky eaters into regulars, both for the flavorful food and unpretentious style.

And, when the sun comes out again and the temperature allows, it's a fine place for a last bit of al fresco dining before fall officially arrives.

The house's well-seasoned, generous escarole-and-bean soup comfortably bridges the seasons. So does an opener of sauteed mushrooms served on soft polenta. You'll have to spend some time looking for a better Bolognese sauce than the version here, enriching a plate of strozzapreti pasta. If you want to go international: swordfish atop quinoa, finished with a blood-orange vinaigrette.

Jonathan's Ristorante, 15 Wall St., Huntington; 631-549-0055.

Jonathan's Ristorante.