Kings Park: Relishing Relish

Although it’s been more than two months since Steven Cardello took chef-ownership of the Kings Park space last known as Mrs. Brown’s Kitchen & Grill, the sign proclaiming its new name – Relish – only recently went up.

Cardello's menu is all about farm-to-table sourcing and from-scratch preparations. A recent special of supremely airy, tender, ricotta pancakes with a fresh peach topping ($8.95) won me over at first forkful. Then, there was a “pastruben” sandwich – pastrami, corned beef, sauerkraut, melted Swiss and Russian dressing on grilled marble rye ($10.95), served with hand-cut skin-on fries. So good. A big fat "classic" burger ($9.95), done exactly to specs, was topped with lettuce, tomatoes, pickle, onion, American cheese and a "special" mayo-based sauce. 

At dinner, which is served Wednesday to Saturday nights, the menu features such entrees as linguine with clams and spicy house-made sausage ($16.95), chicken and chorizo tacos with green chile, queso fresco, avocado crema and roasted corn ($16.95) and meatloaf with mashed potatoes, brown gravy and seasonal vegetables ($15.95).

Relish is at 2 Pulaski Rd., Kings Park, 631-292-2740.