Koi Sushi Lounge replaces Sayville Modern Diner

A Sayville institution since the 1930s, Sayville Modern Diner on Main Street was recognizable for its chrome exterior, retro sign and a menu of eggs, hash browns and Greek diner classics. Today, it houses the newly opened Koi Sushi Lounge, the restaurant that opened last week — with top to bottom updates.

“We had to make major changes, since some of the equipment was over 70 years old,” said a manager. Even as the railroad-car diner had been updated, very old items such as a box of coupons from 1946 alongside a live grenade — perhaps from World War II — were found by workers fixing a gas leak in 2012. Koi is bright and utilitarian, with booths and tables to seat about 80 diners.

Fen Y. Ren is the new owner of the restaurant with eateries in Bridgeport, Connecticut. His menu focuses on pan-Asian appetizers like rock shrimp, tempura dishes and lettuce wraps ($5 to $10) as well as sushi appetizers such as a spicy tuna avocado bowl and spicy tuna pizza ($7 to $13).

Sushi rolls and hand rolls are a specialty, from spider rolls and eel cucumber rolls ($5 to $13) to more provocative selections like the “sexy girl” roll — with spicy blue crab, lobster salad, avocado and soy paper — or the “out of control” roll with raw yellowtail, tuna, salmon, avocado and asparagus topped with seared yellowtail, salmon and tuna, dressed with spicy mayo and eel sauce ($12 to $20). Hibachi dinners range from single-item dinners from steak to sea bass, as well as steak and seafood combinations ($14 to $39). All hibachi items are served with soup, salad, shrimp, vegetables and rice.

Koi Sushi Lounge is open from noon to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday, noon to 11 p.m. Friday, 1 to 11 p.m. Saturday and 2 to 10 p.m. Sunday.

136 Main St., Sayville; 631-563-0777, koisushiny.com