Review: Lido Kosher Deli in Long Beach

When that matzah ball soup craving hits, there's no better option than Lido Deli, the historic Long Beach gem owned since 1986 by Wally Goetz and his son, Russell. 

Looking slick since its remodel and expansion in 2022, the deli is as reliable as ever. The large menu of kosher sandwiches, soups and classic Jewish fare keeps it old-school. Looking around at the exposed brick walls and fancy blue booths, it's difficult to imagine that this space has been a Jewish deli for more than 65 years. (It was known as Bernard's for 30-plus years before it became Lido.) 

Every meal still starts with the bucket of coleslaw and a plate of half-sour and regular pickles. Then you've got the matzah ball soup conundrum. Lido only serves bowls of matzah ball soup, not cups. But who wants to share a fluffy, beautiful matzah ball? So order your own and split the sandwiches instead. After all, they are towering. 

Brisket is made in-house, brined with salt and spices before it's cooked. Ditto with the pastrami, which is not only brined, but subsequently rubbed with spices and smoked, and it is traditionally made with navel, the bovine equivalent of pork belly. Lido's pastrami is rich, juicy and luxuriantly fatty, as pastrami is intended to be.

This is one of the few places on Long Island where you can always get a dark-meat turkey sandwich: every day the kitchen roasts a couple of whole turkeys and the thighs are put to good use between two slices of rye.

Afterward, head over to the adjacent storefront to pick up to-go items from the deli counter. 

Kasha varnishkes (buckwheat bow-tie pasta) is a regular staple at home, and maybe a knish or two while you're at it. Long Beach is lucky to have such a solid kosher deli, but this endearing little haunt is also worth traveling for.

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By Andi Berlin

andi.berlin@newsday.comAndiBerlin

Andi Berlin is from Arizona and does not know where she is going. But when she gets there, she’ll find something beautiful and delicious that the world needs to taste.