Fish and chips, left, and the salmon bowl at Maggie’s...

Fish and chips, left, and the salmon bowl at Maggie’s Eatery in Miller Place. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

When Tyler Hannibal took over Crazy Crepe in Miller Place and transformed it into Maggie’s Eatery, his concept was simple: “I knew that if I cooked good food, that people would come.”

Since he opened in January, people have been coming steadily, drawn to the reasonably priced sandwiches, salads and bowls that nevertheless bespeak a chef’s hand.

Hannibal, an East Hampton native, started cooking when he was 14 and never stopped. Before Maggie’s Eatery he spent 10 years as the executive chef of Bostwick’s Chowder House in East Hampton and its siblings, Bostwick’s on the Harbor and Indian Wells Tavern. During COVID he and his young family moved to Ridge. “I was tired of cooking what other people wanted me to cook,” he said. “I wanted to make food that is wholesome and soulful but also a little cutting edge.” 

That’s an accurate take on his menu. Standards such as the steak sandwich ($19.95) are elevated by marinated skirt steak and toasted garlic ciabatta with mozzarella, arugula and fried onions. With its garnish of pickled vegetables, a chicken banh mi ($19.95) is inspired by Vietnamese flavors, but it veers into East-West fusion with hoisin mayo and its deep-fried thigh. Another fusion dish, vegetable tacos ($17.95), brings together baby bok choy, edamame, ponzu guacamole, chipotle mayo, napa cabbage and pico de gallo. A salmon bowl ($22.95) features a fat, pan-seared fillet over sushi rice with seaweed salad, cucumbers, grilled corn and hoisin aioli.

Hannibal’s chowder house cred is on full display with the fish and chips ($21.95), thick fingers of cod enrobed in an airy-crisp beer batter and served with hand-cut fries. The recipe for his lobster roll ($29.95) originated with his grandmother, the eponymous Maggie, and is served on a toasted potato bun. A more contemporary take on seafood is his ahi avocado toast ($16.95) topped with a tartar of sushi-grade tuna tossed with Meyer lemon, peppers and chives and topped with queso fresco. Homemade desserts, $6.95, change but currently include caramel-filled churros, pan-fried banana bread with dulce de leche and sweet corn-blueberry ice cream.

The eatery is bright and colorful, with a vaguely nautical décor. Order at the counter and your meal will be delivered to your table. Beer and wine, Hannibal said, should debut in a few months.

Maggie’s Eatery, 465 Route 25A, Miller Place, 631-828-5554, maggieseatery.com. Open Monday-Thursday 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Sunday 11:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Closed Tuesday.

 
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