Maroni Cuisine

Maroni Cuisine is exactly that: whatever the chef wants to do on any given day. It's a cramped, idiosyncratic spot where you can have a creative, satisfying meal. You'll just have to put up with lots of repartee, description and whatever else the little place's mood is. Generally, it's fun, especially if you don't mind the cramped surroundings. Be loose, have a sense of humor about the joint, and enjoy the ever-changing menu. Some hits: the sashimi of the day, an updated shrimp cocktail, crisp duck with Grand Marnier syrup and the Memphis-style barbecued ribs. There's much talk about "Grandma Maroni's Famous Meatballs & Spaghetti." But you don't have to bother.

Lobster roll: Chef Michael Maroni's lobster salad is made with lots of fresh Canadian lobster meat, chopped celery, a little mayo, a touch of Dijon, plus salt and pepper. It's piled onto a buttery French croissant, cut into the shape of a hot dog bun, and comes with Tater Tots and coleslaw. At $25 for takeout ($29 if eaten in the restaurant), it's available only at lunch and on weeknights. Overall, generous and classy