New Asian eateries on Merrick Road

Lunch chirashi is served at at Kanda Asian Bistro &... — Lunch chirashi is served at at Kanda Asian Bistro & Sushi Bar in Bellmore (March 2011) Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

By JOAN REMINICKjoan.reminick@newsday.comApril 16, 2011

Like crocuses in spring, Asian eateries have been popping up along the stretch of Merrick Road running between Bellmore and Merrick. There's Sushi Ko and Xaga of Merrick and, in Bellmore, Jen's Chinese Food & Catering and -- just a block away -- Kanda Asian Bistro & Sushi Bar.

Nobody is complaining about the c-ompetition. Certainly not Sushi Ko owner James Wang, who views his non-fusion Japanese restaurant as an entity apart. "Japanese food is very popular now and the demand is very high," said Wang, who drove all over Long Island to find just the right location. "Before I opened," Wang said, "I tried all the other places. I think I can survive."

So, too, does Tom Wang (no relation), co-owner of Xaga of Merrick, an offshoot of Xaga Sushi in Hewlett. "This community is similar to . . . the Five Towns area," says Wang, citing a high income level. At any rate, he adds, "Competition helps each improve their food and quality."

So, here's what's new and Asian on Merrick Road, between the Wantagh and Meadowbrook Parkways.

Sushi Ko

2063 Merrick Rd., Merrick

INFO 516-378-9888

THE SCENE A sleek, chic bi-level spot.

THE FOOD Owner James Wang, who worked for a tuna fishing company under Japanese sea captains, clearly knows raw fish. Here, quality is high, presentation pretty, both fish and rice at perfect room temperature. On the list of kitchen entrees: steamed Chilean sea bass with black bean sauce and organic chicken tempura.

THE COST $$-$$$

Kanda Asian Bistro & Sushi Bar

2725 Merrick Rd., Bellmore

INFO 516-221-2332

THE SCENE A cozy and comfortable spot with a sushi bar and a contemporary vibe.

THE FOOD You'll find a long list of specialty maki rolls plus a kitchen menu that covers the map of Asia: A choice of protein (chicken, tofu, beef, shrimp or fish) with Malaysian red curry sauce, spicy mango sauce or Indonesian sambal sauce, as well as such options as Sichuan crispy shredded beef and pork katsu.

THE COST $$

Xaga of Merrick

217 Merrick Rd., Merrick

INFO 516-379-8888, xagasushi.com

THE SCENE Dramatic bi-level space with an elegant sushi bar and colorful lighting.

THE FOOD Lots of fancy maki rolls here. Chirashi is fresh and pretty. Other highlights: shrimp and eggplant in garlic sauce, a well-nuanced chicken pad Thai, Chilean sea bass with black bean sauce and chicken with satay sauce.

THE COST $$-$$$

Jen's Chinese Food & Catering

2695 Merrick Rd., Bellmore

INFO 516-221-8888, jenschinesefood.com

THE SCENE Hyper-informal, a cross between takeout and full-fledged restaurant -- tea comes in Styrofoam cups, but there's also table service.

THE FOOD The straightforward menu lists Chinese dishes from several regions: Cantonese big bowl noodle soups, Hunan chicken and Sichuan beef, old school Chinese American classics as egg foo young and chow mein, as well as light steamed dishes and vegetarian options.

THE COST $-$$