Oceans 5 in Shoreham: First bites

Oceans 5 in Shoreham is divided by three: restaurant, market, bar. And it's a good stop for fresh fish on a stretch not known much for dining out.

In full, this is Oceans 5 Seafood Market & Eatery. The eatery, which seats less than 30, is separated from the market counter by a divider capped with a small, driftwood sculpture.

The dining area itself is decorated with oversize, vintage images of the Fulton Fish Market. The welcoming place is  rimmed with gray beadboard wainscoting. Servers are friendly and there's minimal fuss.

On this sunny day, you should visit for a taste of warmer weather via the tasty, well-dressed lobster roll, complete with buttery bun.

Oceans 5 also serves respectable fried calamari, shrimp scampi-style and sea scallops wrapped with bacon. The finfish and shellfish selection typically includes more than a dozen. In addition to the kitchen's own preparations, you can create your entree: pick the seafood; decide whether you want it grilled, pan-seared or baked; and, if you like, choose one of the 13 sauces.

For the carnivorous, there are steaks.

Price range for main courses at dinner: $17-$45, most in the $20s. Lunch dishes peak at $15.

The eatery is associated with Rick's Seafood in Mahopac, in Putnam County.

Oceans 5, Shoreham Plaza shopping center, at 99 Route 25A; 631-849-6414.