Ondas by Fuego Mexican steakhouse opens in Cedarhurst

There is a matzo ball in the tortilla soup. A small one, the size of a golf ball, poking out from the viscous orange broth, which is curiously not topped with tortillas. The matzo ball is not one of the fluffy honkers you typically get at a Jewish deli, but more compact and toothsome; a sinker. Despite the little speckle of beans, corn and cilantro on top, the rich broth begs for a squeeze of lime.

You might think this is some half-baked attempt at Mexican fusion. But matzo ball soup is actually a staple food for the Mexican-Jewish diaspora, often spiced up with lime and chili peppers. The tortilla soup ($18) is comforting, yet intriguing. It is one of many offbeat dishes at the new Ondas by Fuego, a clubby kosher Mexican steakhouse. 

Located in Cedarhurst, Ondas by Fuego is owned by Miami-based restaurateurs Avi Bitton and Mark Aquinin. The two have operated a Latin kosher barbecue restaurant, Fuego by Mana, for more than a decade in North Miami Beach. The large kosher Mexican menu was developed alongside consultant Denevin Miranda, a Filipino American chef who's competed on the Food Network's "Chopped." 

They styled the restaurant, formerly Sushi Metsuyan, after places they'd enjoyed while traveling in Tulum on the Yucatán Peninsula. The darkly lit party cave is filled with basket lamps and bohemian chic flourishes, but tables are spaced comfortably far apart and the volume level remains quiet until there's a birthday and suddenly there are sparklers and a blast of klezmer-style music. 

Ondas roughly translates to good vibes. ("Ondas has a lot of definitions, like shalom," manager Eleazar Nun said.) And the place is definitely a spendy celebration spot. The menu leans regional Mexican, with dishes like a hamachi tuna aguachile ($28) served in a bulbous black artsy bowl. The raw fish is carefully layered in the center, surrounded by a wall of whisper-thin radish slices that seems superfluous, until the server pours a crock of limey cilantro sauce all around it. Yes, there may be a little too much sauce, and no, this is not a typical aguachile as seen in its home state of Sinaloa. But is it delicious? Yes.

Tacos also make an appearance, and the Baja fish variety ($22) is strikingly served in blue corn tortillas. Blue corn tortillas may not be typical in the actual Baja region, but they're a nice touch here and complement the bouquet of frizzled purple and green cabbage strewed over the top. 

But these are all precursors to the steaks, which seem to be on every table, often accompanied by french fries. Premium steakhouses are a point of pride in north Mexico, where ranching culture reigns supreme. And the boneless rib-eye steak ($88) is truly fantastic, aged for 30 days on site and grilled over charcoal in a 500-degree Josper oven from Spain. Like a few of the other meat selections, it's labeled "Beis Yosef," which signifies it's a high degree of kashruth often followed by Jews of Sephardic descent. It's an excellent cut of meat cooked perfectly to a juicy medium rare, and paired with a crock of epazote-infused black beans, along with some spicy salsas on the side. Ask for a side of tortillas to round it out. 

Ondas by Fuego, 488 Central Ave., Cedarhurst, 516-341-0092, ondasnyc.com. Open 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday. Closed Friday-Saturday. 

By Andi Berlin

andi.berlin@newsday.comAndiBerlin

Andi Berlin is from Arizona and does not know where she is going. But when she gets there, she’ll find something beautiful and delicious that the world needs to taste.