Open in Oyster Bay: Sweet Tomato

Sweet Tomato, an offshoot of the Glen Cove original, has taken root in Oyster Bay. The cute and casual counter-service eatery has indoor and outdoor seating, both out front and in the rear. There’s also takeout and local delivery.

I stopped in on a recent evening and was wowed by a rousing Caribbean red-lentil soup ($4.59). Bonus: It was both vegan and gluten-free. A grilled vegetable panino ($8.45) -- featuring eggplant, yellow squash, zucchini, peppers, carrots, house-made mozzarella and a sun-dried tomato dressing -- was good but not in the same class as that virtuous elixir.

Owner Tina Mazzarella said that the focus here is on food that’s locally grown, sustainable and freshly made. “If you want an egg salad sandwich, you have to wait for us to peel the eggs,” she said. Black-bean burgers are done from scratch, as are quiches.

The signature item, she said, is the “vodka” wrap ($7.45): grilled chicken, mozzarella, vodka sauce and — yes, really — penne, all bundled together, to be eaten as a sandwich.

Sweet Tomato is at 91 Audrey Ave., Oyster Bay, 516-802-5353, and 170 Forest Ave., Glen Cove, 516-671-4481.