Pizzeria Undici opens in Massapequa

A savvy new slice joint is making waves on the South Shore with its midcentury modern aesthetic and an irresistible crackly crust. Pizzeria Undici opened in late May on the same retro block of Merrick Road that hosts All American Hamburger and Marshall's Ice Cream Bar. The revamped Massapequa building, which previously was Bagel Wagon & Taco Town, now has bright subway tile and a bustling open air patio like its neighbors. Inside the open kitchen, a large crew busts out old-school Italian American pies to a sizable weeknight crowd. 

Long Island has no shortage of pizza places, but this one already  has buzz.  The operation is co-owned by a handful of Italian American families with industry ties across Long Island and the five boroughs. Partner Tony Luisi said the concept brings back the style of pizza the owners remember eating at family events when they were growing up in New York. 

"It's a thin crust pizza, not sitting out all day, not a lot of toppings, but with high quality ingredients," Luisi said. "It reaches another level of good taste." He added that the name Undici (which translates to the number 11 in English), refers to the spiritual idea of the "angel number."

You won't find a large variety of off-the-wall pies that many Long Island establishments are known for. The menu at Pizzeria Undici is basic, with a small selection of cheese, pepperoni and Italian-style offerings including an upside-down Sicilian with thick, doughy crust and a layer of sweet tomatoes on top of the cheese. But the toppings tasted high quality and the crust was exceptionally thin for a slice joint, satisfyingly cracking in half when folded. Slightly less basic, the hot honey pepperoni ($4 a slice) was a favorite, with a generous drizzle of spicy sweet elixir. 

Pizzeria Undici, 4195 Merrick Rd., Massapequa, 516-820-1111, pizzeriaundici.com. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. 

By Andi Berlin

andi.berlin@newsday.comAndiBerlin

Andi Berlin is from Arizona and does not know where she is going. But when she gets there, she’ll find something beautiful and delicious that the world needs to taste.