Provisions Bread and Cheese opens in Oyster Bay

Jesse Schenker, the culinary "mayor" of Oyster Bay, is at it again — the chef-owner's newest venture is Provisions Bread and Cheese, a market and bakery within walking distance of his four restaurants in the hamlet.

The idea was to create a commercial bakery selling many of the same breads, cheeses and sweet treats that dot his menus, from the buns at Gimme Burger (which can be special-ordered for barbecues) to the sourdough at 2 Spring to the focaccia at his Italian restaurant, Gioia. For sweets, there are colorful French macarons and chocolate truffles that conclude the lush tasting menu at Four, also made in-house. The early read: Bread is the star of the show, with offerings including brioche, ciabatta, ryes, whole and multi-grains, baguettes, pastries and croissants. 

When the pandemic started in March 2020, "we basically taught ourselves how to make bread," Schenker said. Provisions is anchored by an open kitchen where patrons can see staffers kneading and nurturing sourdough starters and other future loaves into various stages of leavening. It all makes for pretty cool rubbernecking at the register. Baking is spread over five shifts.

"You can come in the morning and get a coffee and a croissant. But when the croissants are gone, they’re gone. They’ll be made fresh again the next morning. Same with the bread," Schenker said. 

The walls are adorned with nostalgic cheese art for varieties including Camembert, pecorino Romano, Brie, and more. A handful of blond wood bistro tables await those who want to eat in. A small retail section at the front of the shop has niche products from Marcelli Formaggi, a family producer in Abruzzo, Italy, that makes honey; Bono Castelvetrano Sicilian olives, Le Guérandais fleur de sel and Lescure French butter. Cheese offerings include priced-by-weight selections, from soft-ripened triple crèmes like La Tur and Kunik, to dense Italian Bianco Sardos, plus French Comtés, multiple blues and Goudas of various ages. 

Schenker said made-to-order artisanal sandwiches ($13) have quickly become popular. Currently, there are four, made from 10 a.m.to 3 p.m. The "Bologna" sandwich is made with mortadella, mozzarella, artichoke cream and pistachio on whole wheat focaccia, while the loaded "BEC" features a potato and caramelized onion frittata, bacon and Swiss, loaded onto ciabatta.

Provisions, 17 E. Main St., Oyster Bay, 516-922-3333; provisionsoysterbay.com. Open 6 a.m. through 6 p.m. daily; Sundays until 4 p.m.

By Marie Elena Martinez

marieelena.martinez@newsday.com@mariesworlds

A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.