Restaurants for Halloween on Long Island

At some restaurants, the holiday season goes year-round.

They're the establishments that mark the calendar with the decor of the moment and the dishes of the season. You may think holiday time starts with Thanksgiving. But there are addresses where Halloween gets it going, too. Here's a taste.

In Stony Brook, the Country House stands out for its festive approach. The house has been here since about 1710. For Halloween, expect the apropos decorations. But the style is more treat than trick, more fun than fright. You'll find an early-bird menu on Sunday as well as the regular menu, which includes crabcakes, short ribs, surf-and-turf and "the great pumpkin cake," with cinnamon ice cream. Tomorrow's masquerade party is sold out.

Country House, Route 25A, Stony Brook; 631-751-3332, countryhouserestaurant.com.

The Cooperage Inn in Baiting Hollow is in full pumpkin mode. The homey, American eatery already is taking pie orders for Thanksgiving and beyond. This weekend, the atmospherics will be autumnally apropos in the restaurant's usual, easygoing style. And the regular menus will be available. The eatery is popular for Sunday brunch as well as lunch and dinner. It's where to go for meat loaf, chicken potpie, pork chops with apple chutney; and, earlier, eggs Benedict, pancakes, waffles and French toast.

Cooperage Inn, 2218 Sound Ave., Baiting Hollow; 631-727- 8994, cooperageinn.com.

The big brunch at the Garden City Hotel takes on a Halloween theme on Sunday, with costumed servers, as Rein restaurant gets dressed in requisite style for the day. The "monster brunch" includes carving stations, the popular seafood "extravaganza" and enough sweets to satisfy a crowd. Brunch is $64 for adults; $32 for children younger than 12. The new fall dinner menu also is offered at Rein.

Rein restaurant, Garden City Hotel, 45 Seventh St., Garden City; 516-877-9385, gardencity hotel.com.