Sergio's in Massapequa: Local landmark

Sergio's has been a local landmark for Italian-American food since the 1980s. It still is.

By now, the decor has a lived-in look that almost could pass for retro. And the style is so unpretentious and welcoming that you'll feel like an instant regular. The prices remain very fair, too.

You probably know most of the menu before you see it. Recommendations include the ample, stuffed artichoke and the bright Sicilian salad of oranges; escarole with white beans and broccoli rabe with garlic and olive oil; a husky lasagna and a savory perciatelli with sardines and fennel.

The house's beef braciola and tripe marinara are under the heading "old time favorites," and should be. Likewise, eggplant Parmigiana and sausage and peppers. There are daily specials. Local striped bass treated like shrimp scampi-style deserves the designation. Pork chops with vinegar peppers, chicken Parmigiana and steak alla pizzaiola are essentials.

Italian cheesecake, of course, is an apropos finale.

You'll come back for more.

Sergio's, 5422 Merrick Rd., Massapequa; 516-541-6554.

Stuffed artichoke at Sergio's.