Seven Beach Lane opens in Westhampton Beach

The imposing Victorian structure at 7 Beach Lane in Westhampton Beach had operated as the Grassmere Inn from 1990 until it closed in 2020. Now, new owner Corey Gluckstal, working with a multimillion-dollar budget, has redone it in a grand style, adding dining to the mix for the first time. With fewer than 30 seats, it’s a stylish, intimate venue decorated in hushed tones of honey and sea green with white tablecloths and a marbleized bar. Well, the inside is intimate: Outside, seating sprawls across a shaded patio and sunny lawn.

Chef Shawn Christman, the man behind Montauk’s Sea Bean food truck who previously cooked at Topping Rose and Almond in Bridgehampton, brings East End locavore energy to Seven Beach Lane with a menu that relies on farms H.O.G. in Brookhaven, Balsam in Amagansett, Mecox Dairy in Sagaponack and local fishermen.

On the seafood front: tuna carpaccio with charred-lemon aioli, dayboat fluke with Key lime gel and Fresno chilies; pan-roasted fluke with summer squash and a squid-ink tuile, Alaskan salmon with gigante beans and pickled chilies and striped bass with baby tomatoes and blackened eggplant.

Land-based dishes include a selection of Mecox Dairy cheeses with housemade crackers, Caesar salad with baby romaine, pan-roasted chicken with smashed and fried potatoes, Wagyu strip steak with pommes purée and roasted marrow.

Starters range from $18 to $26, mains from $34 to $74 (for the strip steak). Lunch prices are gentler ($22 to $32), the preparations more casual: fish tacos with kohlrabi slaw and charred-scallion salsa verde, a burger topped with Mecox Dairy cheese, yogurt-marinated grilled chicken on naan with sumac yogurt and harissa.

7 Beach Lane, Westhampton Beach, 631-684-0777, sevenbeachlane.com. Open every day 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.