Spiro's in Rocky Point: First bites

The new Spiro's Restaurant & Lounge in Rocky Point is absolutely packed on the weekend, mainly because of its generous style and some very good steak and seafood. The eatery is owned by Spiro Karachopan, who also operates Sea Basin, a seafood and Italian spot in Rocky Point.

The building rises along a stretch of Route 25A that isn't exactly overflowing with competition. Inside, there's a polished wood divider separating the busy bar from the extremely busy dining room.

Spiro's stands out, however, less for the appointments than for what's on the plate. Order carefully, and you'll have a fine meal. Start with tasty crabcakes or fried calamari with slivers of hot pepper. Then, move on to a very good strip steak or bone-in rib-eye. You'll find an expertly steamed lobster, too.

Service is genial and accommodating, even when the joint is jammed.  Be prepared to hang out at the bar while they're setting your table. That's not a bad thing. Besides, the "i" in Spiro's signage usually is shaped like a martini glass.

Spiro's Restaurant & Lounge, 4 Patchogue Dr. at Route 25A., Rocky Point; 631-744-4100.

Photo: Have yours steamed. . .