Studio Grille, Selden: First Bites

The spacious and sophisticated-looking Studio Grille in Selden takes wide aim with a menu that covers everything from steak to hot dogs. Smart move, in this economy.

A recent dinner began with very good steamed shrimp dumplings ($9) that also contained pork — a detail that should have been noted on the menu. Thai lettuce wraps with teriyaki-glazed chicken and sesame noodles ($9), though, were way over-sauced.

Great grilled “N.Y. dogs" ($9) came two to a plate, blanketed with sauerkraut, spicy brown mustard and sweet onions in tomato sauce, paired with chef Michael Tambarkis’ fine hand-cut seasoned fries. When I couldn’t decide between a burger and a costlier entree, the waitress advised going with the burger, which she said would be super. True, I learned with one bite of my juicy ½ pound Angus patty, served on a roll that didn’t overwhelm it ($10). A friend’s penne Campagnola with grilled chicken and lots of vegetables ($17) was lively enough but would have been better without the chicken. It's hard to understand, this trend of adding grilled chicken to pasta dishes.

I was skeptical about trying Tambarkis’ signature dessert of strawberries stuffed with a sweet tomato compote ($6), but the fruity and slightly tart concoction won me over.

Starting next week, the restaurant will be offering a $12.99 two-course early bird prix-fixe that runs from 4 to 7 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday evenings.

Studio Grille is at 377 Independence Plaza, Selden, 631-320-1001, studiogrilleny.com.

Above: Stuffed strawberries at Studio Grille, Selden