Review: Taka Sushi in Westbury
A range of offerings at Taka Sushi in Westbury Credit: Yvonne Albinowski
Located in a strip mall in Westbury, Taka swims far below the radar. Although it feels more like a neighborhood spot with its minimalist wood-paneled walls and scant ten to twelve tables, it is well known among Long Island’s sushi cognoscenti.
Chef-owner Taka Yamaguchi presides over the restaurant from behind the sushi bar. You’ll know him instantly; he’s the strong, silent type, not given to friendly banter, preferring to concentrate on his work.
Settle in at the counter and ask for the omakase, or chef’s choice. Depending on season (and whim), you might be served marinated mackerel, Arctic char, Spanish mackerel cross-hatched through its shimmery skin and topped with ginger and scallion, melt-in-your-mouth-yellowtail sushi with its own little belt of shiso leaf, fluke, toro (belly tuna) or sweet shrimp.
Oysters on the half shell at Taka Sushi in Westbury. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski
If you’re super lucky; Japanese delicacies including shirako, sperm sacs from male codfish, briny and soft, with a mouth feel similar to a velvety oyster, monkfish liver, and hotaru ika, or firefly squid served whole, marinated in a miso vinaigrette, will delight.
If you’re not as adventurous, standard rolls and simple chirashi bowls feel elevated here because of the quality of the fish and the dexterity of the chef. With a focus more on fish, less on trendy toppings, Taka’s sushi feels minimalist in the very best way. Though Taka’s pre-pandemic iteration served a kitchen full of hot entrees, including some impressive donburi selections, the only hot offerings are appetizers like gyoza, yakitori, broiled yellowtail collar with ponzu, and trio of tempuras — chicken, shrimp, and vegetable — all of which are excellent. Don’t sleep on Taka’s extensive list of Japanese beers and sake.
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A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.
