Crabcake with avocado puree and fennel salad at The Marker...

Crabcake with avocado puree and fennel salad at The Marker at the Glen Cove Golf Course. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Here's the thing about this part of Long Island: All the really interesting places are private, hidden behind century-old stone walls and imposing gates. But the Gold Coast powers that be saw fit to make the Glen Cove Golf Course — with its spectacular view of the Sound — a public amenity.

You don’t even have to pay a greens fee to eat at the course’s new restaurant, The Marker. This is the latest venture from Kent Monkan, who already operates The Brass Rail in Locust Valley, Heirloom Tavern and Choppers Burger Bar in Glen Head and The Wild Goose in Port Washington.

Monkan took over the lease in February from longtime operator Jeanine V. Dimenna (whose The View Grill has been reconfigured and reborn as Jeanine’s American Bistro at 242 Glen Cove Ave.). He gutted the dining room and knocked down walls so the water is visible from almost everywhere. The renovation was "tricky," he said. "The place functions as a restaurant and an event venue but I didn’t want it to look like a catering hall." Unless he is offered "an astronomical amount of money," he’s limiting private events to lunchtime or weeknights. "I want this to be a place people know they can come on a Saturday night."

The outdoor dining area, which accommodates 150 people, reopened in the spring but it took until September before the inside (100 seats) was ready. It’s a sleek space with widely spaced, white-clothed tables and contemporary lighting.

The dining room at The Marker at the Glen Cove...

The dining room at The Marker at the Glen Cove Golf Course in Glen Cove. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Starters ($13 to $19) include duck-ricotta ravioli with roasted corn puree and risotto croquettes. Sandwiches ($19 to $28) include a Parisian cheeseburger (with Comté cheese, caramelized onions and arugula) and blackened chicken sandwich with spicy aioli. There are pastas ($29 to $33) such as cacio e pepe with truffles and shrimp scampi with linguine. Mains ($26 to $58) include a roasted half-chicken with green beans and mushroom risotto; macadamia-crusted salmon with grilled bok choy and red-curry coconut sauce and Long Island duck breast with parsnip puree, braised leeks, oyster mushrooms and lentils.

Monkan said the menu "had to be even more diverse because I’m dealing with customers who came to play a round of golf and just wound up at the restaurant." Hence the Buffalo wings ($16), Cajun shrimp wrap ($22), Philly cheesesteak ($22), Cobb salad ($16) and lobster roll ($28).

Every day brings about 10 specials and, on weekends, there’s pizza too.

The Marker, 111 Lattingtown Rd., Glen Cove, 516-629-6686, themarkerny.com. Open Tuesday to Thursday noon to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

 
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