The Seawater Grill at Montauk's Gurney's Inn is the splashy overhaul of the former landmark, The Sea Grille. Inside, you'll streamlined colors that are a refreshing change from its former self. Some of the dishes are a work-in-progress, but overall, the remade restaurant is startling, risky and welcome.

Credit: Gordon M. Grant

The sleek and modernized main dining room at The Seawater Grill at Gurney's Montauk Resort and Seawater Spa in Montauk has a new streamlined look.

Credit: Gordon M. Grant

The refurbished dining room is a refreshing highlight at The Seawater Grill at Gurney's Montauk Resort and Seawater Spa in Montauk.

Credit: Gordon M. Grant

Diners on the outside deck of The Seawater Grill at Gurney's Montauk Resort and Seawater Spa in Montauk have an unobstructed ocean view.

Credit: Gordon M. Grant

Refined tuna tartare tacos with molecular soy-sauce "pearls" are served at The Seawater Grill at Gurney's Montauk Resort and Seawater Spa in Montauk.

Credit: Gordon M. Grant

The Oz roll at The Seawater Grill at Gurney's Montauk Resort and Seawater Spa in Montauk is filled with tuna, shrimp tempura and crab.

Credit: Gordon M. Grant

Artful Montauk fluke crudo is a top appetizer at The Seawater Grill at Gurney's Montauk Resort and Seawater Spa in Montauk.

 
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