This week's restaurant review

Aji 53 is "the latest example of the amped-up, pumped-up, made-up Japanese eatery in overdrive," Peter Gianotti writes about the new Smithtown restaurant in Friday's Newsday. He gives the restaurant one-and-a-half stars, recommending the soft-shell crab with hot chili sauce, the "crisp, tender duck salad" and the Fire Island roll.

The Fire Island roll at Aji 53 in Smithtown is a shrimp tempura roll topped with spicy tuna and wasabi tobiko served with wasabi olive sauce. (May 20, 2011)