Review: Tonnam Thai in Bohemia
Beef pork boat noodle soup with Chinese broccoli, bean sprouts, cilantro and scallion at Tonnam Thai Kitchen in Bohemia. Credit: Randee Daddona
Talk about hidden gems — formerly a Chinese takeout, this Bohemia shop serves flawlessly-executed Bangkok street foods adorned with edible flowers.
The strip mall locale has attracted a stream of devoted regulars since it opened in 2022. It's an unlikely location for classically trained Bangkok chef Vorragun "Brian" Vongdarunee and his wife, Kasamaporn "Masi" Chansaksri, who previously owned a Thai restaurant in Astoria. But they found the town of Bohemia to be much less competitive than Queens, and enjoy the natural beauty and calm of Suffolk County.
Thai papaya salad at Tonnam Thai Kitchen in Bohemia, which is co-owned by Brian Vongdarunee and Kasamaporn "Masi" Chansaksri.
That beauty is reflected in dishes such as laab gai, a tangy minced chicken salad teeming with fresh herbs and red onions. The spicy duck curry with its crispy loaves of fried duck breast is gorgeously plated with chunks of fresh pineapple. And the boat noodle soup is a destination dish. With its viscous black broth and tangle of vermicelli noodles scattered with chopped green onions, their rendition of the Bangkok specialty is unparalleled.
Big city Bangkok cuisine is notably less spicy than the chile-laden curries from the south and the explosive cooking of the north and northeast. So if you're looking to get pummeled, Tonnam Thai is not the place for you. The flavors here are more about balance and the assertiveness of the tangy fish sauce and lime. Also, this is a small counter spot, and more fitted for lunch or a casual dinner than a celebration night out. But the food here is on par with renowned Thai spots like SriPraPhai, kitchens that expand our definition of Thailand and its diverse cuisine.
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Andi Berlin is from Arizona and does not know where she is going. But when she gets there, she’ll find something beautiful and delicious that the world needs to taste.
