St. Louis ribs at TownLine BBQ in Sagaponack.

St. Louis ribs at TownLine BBQ in Sagaponack. Credit: Gordon M. Grant

This is as honky tonk as Long Island gets and that’s part of the allure of this roadside barbecue spot in, of all places, the Hamptons. TownLine, which sits the border of Wainscott and Sagaponack, trades in the art of smoked meat with an array of well-sourced meats, flavorful rubs, careful smoking and rich housemade sauces.

The reclaimed barn wood used to build the restaurant gives the restaurant a vintage feel. It's part of the Honest Management Group that also runs other well-known East End eateries including Nick and Toni’s — another Top 50 hot spot — Coche Comedor, La Fondita and Rowdy Hall. Place your order at the counter, then pull up to a table — inside or out, overlooking the corn fields — and wait for some serious grub to come your way.

TownLine BBQ in Sagaponack is made from reclaimed barn wood.

Whether you’re going for a half or whole rack order of memorable of St. Louis-style ribs, some terrific pulled pork and chicken, tender brisket (served both lean and fatty), or a smoked chicken, you really can’t go wrong. Order by the pound or toss your meat into a sandwich, but don’t miss the excellent sides — especially the cornbread, collard greens and baked beans.

Large parties can satisfy big appetites with combos for four or eight people, and other offerings include wings, Buffalo fries, and "nuggs," or crispy pork rib tips tossed in Carolina white sauce and a rub of your choosing. But  TownLine, in a departure from other barbecue joints, produces some fine desserts like chocolate cake and banana pudding, and some even finer cocktails. Don’t miss the overachieving whiskey program, which boasts more than 70 bottles, or the rotating tap beer program.

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