Wagyu Steakhouse opens at former Red Robin in West Babylon

Out with Red Robin, in with ... Bella? That's the name of the robot that delivers the food and drinks at Wagyu Steakhouse, a new eatery specializing in premium Japanese A5 Wagyu beef that opened in the former burger-and-fries chain restaurant's space at the Great South Bay Shopping Center in West Babylon.

For the uninitiated, Wagyu refers to Japanese cattle breeds — “wa” means Japanese, “gyu” means cow — known for their intra-muscular fat cells that yield the meat’s signature marbled look. When cooked, those fat cells melt down into a glistening, tender and flavorful steak favored by carnivores the world over.

The menu also offers sushi — a set of four very good hand rolls is $22 — but boasts a more robust selection of chicken, salmon, shrimp and sea bass. Clearly, it’s the steak that matters here. The Miyazaki Wagyu runs $10/ounce, with a suggested portion size of four ounces — more than ample given the fat content of the meat. If marbling isn’t your thing, there are plenty of other cuts to choose from, including an Angus bone-in rib eye ($34), a 30-day aged Prime NY Strip ($50) and Porterhouse ($90), and a 44-ounce Tomahawk ($140). Add lobster or shrimp for surf and turf vibes. Kids will love the Wagyu sliders ($16). On weekends, brunch options include burgers ($17) and lobster rolls ($30).

The cavernous space retains a Red Robin afterglow. The banquettes are still covered in the chain’s signature stripes with neon purple lighting. Against a soundtrack of light electronica music, it all feels a little cosmically mismatched, but that all fades away when Bella, the food-delivering robot, makes way to your table to deliver drinks, appetizers, small talk and some decadent steak.

Wagyu Steakhouse. 1035 W. Montauk Highway, West Babylon. Open from noon to 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, until 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 631-482-1606, wagyusteakhouseli.com

By Marie Elena Martinez

marieelena.martinez@newsday.com@mariesworlds

A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.